A good portion of knowing the answer is knowing where to find it. Of course this holds true when you’re trying to fix a new malady on your trusty steed or even on the most basic things like installing a cycle computer. In most cases the people that wrote the instructions have performed said task more than once or twice. I recommend reading the directions twice before beginning anything. The guys at Park Tools have fixed a few bikes and that’s why their Big Blue Book of Bike Repair is so darn good. Aimed at the home mechanic, the book offers easy to understand explanations of bike repair tasks accompanied by helpful photos.

Product description:

A new book on bike repair from the company that wrote the book on bike repair products. Calvin Jones, Education Director at Park Tool, provides easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions for keeping any road or mountain bike running smoothly. From tire repair and derailleur adjustment to wheel truing and bottom bracket replacement, The Big Blue Book of Bike Repair provides both the novice and veteran mechanic with the information needed to perform nearly any repair. Special topics such as tool selection, bike cleaning, and on-the-trail repairs are also covered, and an appendix at the back of the book provides valuable reference materials. Up to date with the latest technology, The Big Blue Book of Bike Repair is packed four hundred photos, as well as repair tips garnered from the author’s 30 years as an educator and mechanic.

A great book to keep in the tool box or next to the bed. Buy it here.

It’s time to install some pedals on a bike. If you are in possession of a pedal wrench and some bike grease, you are ready to tackle the pedal installation. No need to run to the local bike shop.

In order to understand what you’re about to read, you’ll need a quick lesson in pedal and bike anatomy. First thing first, whenever referring to right or left on a bicycle, it’s as if you were sitting on the saddle of the bicycle with your hands on the handlebar. Therefore the right side of the bike generally has the drivetrain( derailleurs, gears, and chain). I say “generally” because there are some exceptions. Disc brake calipers are typically mounted to the left side of a bicycle. You get the idea. The center of the bike is a plane that would split the rider, tires, and frame, perpendicular to the ground.

The pedals thread into the right and left crank arms. The large threaded part of the pedal is the pedal spindle, some times called a pedal axle. The part of the pedal that contacts your foot is the pedal body. The pedal body spins on the spindle with the help of bushings or bearings, and a bit of grease. The pedal spindle will have the wrench surfaces that dictate what type of wrench you should use.

The proper pedal wrench is dependent on the pedals on the bike, and more specifically what the pedal spindle has been designed to be compatible with. The most common pedal wrench is probably the 15mm open ended wrench which works on pedals that have wrench flats on the spindle, between the crank arm and the pedal body. There are also pedals that use a similar 9/16″ wrench. The 9/16″ and the 15mm are close in size and appearance and care should be taken to use the proper wrench, especially if your pedal wrench offers both. If the pedal is designed to be used with a hex pedal wrench, the hex socket is found at the end of the spindle, on the inside of the crank arm. These hex sockets on the pedals will be either 6mm or 8mm. Whichever style wrench the pedal is designed to accept, be sure to use a wrench designed specifically for pedals! It will make life easier.

Before you begin the installation, place the bicycle in a stable position. A bike repair stand is best, but leaning it against a wall or flipping it upside down will do just fine. Next, clean the threads on the cranks and the pedals. Once the surfaces are clean you can apply a small amount of bicycle grease to the pedal threads. The grease will help combat corrosion, noise, and seizing, making the pedal’s removal easier later.

Pedals are left and right specific and deciding which is which can be accomplished through a few ways. If there are an L(for left) and an R(for right) stamped into the pedal spindle consider yourself lucky and move on to the next step. Sometimes just one pedal will be stamped with the distinguishing L or R, so check both. If a pedal has a toe clip, is one sided, or is a directional pedal, there is only one direction the pedals can be mounted and remain functional. Hold the pedals up to the bicycle to figure out which is right and left. You can grab your cycling shoes to check how the shoe attaches to the pedal in a clipless pedal and shoe system if you aren’t sure. If none of those work for your situation, hold the pedal up in front of you. Hold the pedal by the pedal body with the spindle pointing threaded end up. The threads on the spindle will appear to have a high and a low side. If the threads run up and to the left, it’s the left pedal. If the threads run up and to the right, it’s the right pedal. Holding both pedals next to each other can make picking up the slight slope of the threads easier on your eyes.

Getting the pedal threads started can be the toughest challenge of the whole process. Sometimes it’s so challenging I will go back to check if I am trying to install the correct side pedal. Double checking is always good too. You’ll want to use your finger to get the pedal started into the crank. By using your fingers you have more control and a better feel in order to get the threads started. Cross threading is a term for what occurs when you thread something in crooked. It is very bad in the world of pedals and cranks. Finger starting the pedals doesn’t allow you enough force on the pedal to mis form the metal threads.

To install the right pedal hold the pedal spindle perpendicular to the right crank so that it lines up with the threaded hole in the crank. Turning the pedal spindle to the right, or clockwise, while holding it in the proper position will start the pedal threads. Use one hand to hold the pedal body to stabilize while the other hand turns the pedal spindle. Got that? To the right. Install the right pedal by turning the spindle to the right(clockwise).

To install the left pedal use the same two handed technique as with the right. The only difference is the left pedal has a left thread, or reverse thread. That means you’ll have to install the left pedal by turning the pedal spindle to the left(counter clockwise). This is opposite of what we are used to as our standard threads are righty tighty. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread.

A couple more thoughts on pedal installation. If you can’t get a pedal started and you are positive it’s the correct side, you may need to re tap the thread to clean them. Threads can easily be damaged. Most shops will have pedal taps and the job is usually quick and easy. About your pedal wrench, it is designed with a long handle for making pedal removal easier if the pedal has been overtightened. The long handle is not to overtighten the pedals. You do not want them to come loose, but you’ll probably want to get them off some day. If you aren’t sure what the proper torque for your pedals are, check with a professional mechanic for some help. Good luck.

Pedals need to be removed for various reasons. Travel, shipment, pedal replacement, pedal service, or maybe your selling a bike and you just want your pedals back. In any case, it’s not always so convenient to run down to the local bike shop. If you are in possession of the proper tools, this task can be handled easily without going anywhere.

In order to understand what you’re about to read, you’ll need a quick lesson in pedal and bike anatomy. First thing first, whenever referring to right or left on a bicycle, it’s as if you were sitting on the saddle of the bicycle with your hands on the handlebar. Therefore the right side of the bike generally has the drivetrain( derailleurs, gears, and chain). I say “generally” because there are some exceptions. Disc brake calipers are typically mounted to the left side of a bicycle. You get the idea. The center of the bike is a plane that would split the rider, tires, and frame, perpendicular to the ground.

The pedals thread into the right and left crank arms. The large threaded metal part of the pedal is the pedal spindle, some times called a pedal axle. The part of the pedal that contacts your foot is the pedal body. The pedal body spins on the spindle with the help of bushings or bearings, and a bit of grease. The pedal spindle will have the wrench surfaces that dictate what type of wrench you should use.

The proper pedal wrench is dependent on the pedals on the bike, and more specifically what the pedal spindle has been designed to be compatible with. The most common pedal wrench is probably the 15mm open ended wrench which works on pedals that have wrench flats on the spindle, between the crank arm and the pedal body. There are also pedals that use a similar 9/16″ wrench. The 9/16″ and the 15mm are close in size and appearance and care should be taken to use the proper wrench, especially if your pedal wrench offers both. If the pedal is designed to be used with a hex pedal wrench, the hex socket is found at the end of the spindle, on the inside of the crank arm. These hex sockets on the pedals will be either 6mm or 8mm. Whichever style the pedal is designed to accept, be sure to use a wrench designed specifically for pedals! It will make life easier.

A couple more things before you remove that pedal. Shift your chain up to the big chain ring(outermost). By covering the teeth on that chain ring you can help avoid the occasional blood letting that goes with pedal removal. I’ve even started to wear my mechanic’s gloves(cheap rubberized gardening gloves) all the time because I’m sick of bloody knuckles. The point is, be careful.

As I like things to be easy, I recommend positioning the bike so it’s stable, while offering you both hands free to work. A bike repair stand would be best, but leaning it against a wall, or even flipping it upside down will do just fine.

Pedals are left and right specific. Because the pedals are on the bike, it’s fairly easy to tell which pedal is left and which is right. Let’s start with the right pedal. The right pedal will unthread from the crank as the spindle turns counter clockwise. When you place the pedal wrench on the wrench flats or in the hex socket be sure keep the angle between the wrench and the crank arm less than 90 degrees. The advantage gained by proper wrench position is crucial as pedals are often victim to severe over tightening. See pics below.

These photos show two different kinds of pedal wrenches at an angle less than 90 degrees to the crank.

Use one hand to help steady the bike or hold the opposite crank arm for more leverage. Grasping the pedal wrench at the end of the handle, apply force in the counter clockwise direction. Many pedals will have a noticeable threshold between tight and loose, but some will require brute force throughout the removal of the pedal. Consider the right pedal removed

The left pedal will be removed the same way, except the wrench will need to be turned clockwise. The left pedal has a left thread, also called a reverse thread. The left hand thread is opposite of what most would consider the standard or a righty tighty thread. Therefore in removal of the left pedal, force must be applied to the wrench in a clockwise direction. Once you can remember that the left pedal has a left thread, you are ruling pedal removal. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread.

That’s it. These helping hints should lead you to easy pedal removal.

Gift shopping is a double edged sword for me. While getting someone that perfect present is satisfying, the aggravation in extensive searching, or even worse, the certainty that the recipient won’t appreciate it and will probably give it away next holiday season, can leave one feeling not so good. Hopefully these tips will save you some time and effort, at the same time providing the bike mechanic with something they’ll want.

I think shopping for the average bicycle mechanic may be easier than shopping for the average person. Typically bike mechanics are broke leaving lots of room for need and want in an industry that has excess gadgetry and changing technology.

$0.01-$10
tubes
gear cleaning brush
valve caps

$10-$25
digital air gauge
folding multi tool
bike porn
beer glasses
Big Blue Book of Bike Repair

$25+
Ultimate hanging bike scale
messenger bag
safety glasses
frame building school
air compressor
torque wrench

Let’s do an experiment. Let’s see what happens when I send a mangled Multi 17 tool back to Crank Brothers for warranty. Over all, I’m already sold on the Crank Brothers products. Their pedals, tools, and now various other components, are pleasing to the eye and functional to boot As I’ll mention in my letter to Crank Brothers, I broke my Multi 17 trying to remove an over tightened pedal. That sort of task can be tough with the proper tool. Besides the failure in extreme circumstance, my Multi 17 was a trooper. The chain tool is not so easy to use, but adequate in a pinch. The rest is just what you need for any everyday mountain bike ride, and not too much to slip into your jersey pocket for a long road ride.

Crank Brothers claims a lifetime warranty on their tools. I didn’t see any fine print associated with that statement, but who knows? I will be returning the tool without all of the parts and with a healthy amount of rust. The letter I will include with the crippled tool will go something like this.:

Dear Crank Brothers,

I broke my Multi 17 tool while trying to remove an overtightened pedal at the end of a ride. I realize the task could have used a tool better suited, but my Multi 17 was all I had on hand.

I’ve already purchased another multi 17 to replace this one, but maybe you could help me out with a backup.

Love your new line.

Thanks,

KC

I’ll send the tool and letter on Monday 11/26 and keep you posted on how it goes. For more info on Crank Brothers, check out their website at www.crankbrothers.com or visit TPW Marketplace for killer deals on their products.

I’m off to Moab tomorrow afternoon. The 24 Hours of Moab starts on Saturday, and since I’ll be 1 of 2 wrenches for the 4 teams that Pereira Cycles has entered in the event, I want to make sure our pit location is prime. Today is prep day and I don’t want to forget anything, so I thought I’d make a list. Here it is.

Tools & Lubes: PCBR Spoker, shop apron, repair stands, wheel truing stand, air tank, air compressor, air compressor hose, air compressor attachments(schrader, presta, air gun), pressure washer(handy in muddy situations, but set it on low), pedal wrenches(6mm hex, 8mm hex, 15mm open end), multiple multi tools, hex wrenches(2 sets), open/box metric wrenches, 3/32 hex wrench(for Chris King Hubs), Flat head screwdrivers(little to big and everything in between, phillips screwdrivers(full size run), tire levers, spoke wrenches(Mavic, Shimano, standard), chain tools, tire pressure gauge, brake bleed kits(Hayes, Magura, Avid), Knipex Plier Wrench(a TPW favorite), diagonal cutters, housing cutters, chain lube, degreaser, hand cleaner, rubbing alcohol, safety glasses, hack saw, spare hack saw blade, bottom bracket tools, cassette tool, torque wrench, magnetic parts tray, chain whip, crank pullers, cone wrenches, floor pumps, lock ring wrench, chain whip, headset wrenches, wire brush, toothbrush, scrub brush, calipers, measuring tape, spanner tools(great for eccentric bbs), toe straps, clamps …….

Spare Parts: derailleurs, derailleur cables, derailleur housing, brake cables, brake housing, brake ferrules, shift ferrules, brake pads(Hayes, Magura, Avid), brake lines, brake fittings, brake fluids, brake rotors, spokes, chains(single speed, 9 speed), Shimano chain pins, Sram Power Links, Stan’s No Tubes Solution, Nite Rider light mounts, chain ring bolts, spokes, my bike, hair spray, 26″ tires, 26″ tubes, 29″ tires, 29″ tubes, Sram shifters, Shimano shifters………

Misc.: table, headlamp, work lights, stationary trainer, front wheel block, carpet, pop up canopy, tie downs, buckets, chairs, Trixi’s bed, Trixi food, Trixi bowls, pit bike, yoga ball(crucial), goggles(in case of dust/sand storm), sleeping bag, pillow, extension cords, outlet splitters, tunes, rags, paper towels, hand cleaner, flooring …………

I’m positive I’ve left some things out. I do like to be over prepared but forgetting a few things isn’t usually a big issue. In my experience, there’s always a solution to be found for any mechanical problem, right in the pit area. The 24 hour racing community creates a friendly and supportive environment for everyone. Hopefully we’ll see you there.

The Park TS-2 is the standard in bike shop quality wheel truing stands.  The TS-2 is designed to hold wheels from 16″ through 28″, and often with the tire left on.  At 17.7lbs., the Park TS-2 isn’t all that great to carry in your shop apron, but it mounts nicely to your work bench, Park Tool’s own base, a piece of wood, or it can be clamped in a vise for stability.  The weight is also an indication of the burliness of this truing stand.  Over the years I have witnessed these stands take abuse that no other truing stands on the market could withstand.  The stand will automatically center the hub, up to 150mm wide, in relation to the spring loaded truing calipers, a bonus for truing wheels, a necessity for building them.

Park Tool offers some accessories for the TS-2.  The TS-2EXT axle holding arm extensions are required for 29″ wheels.  The TSB-2 truing stand base is a compliment to the TS-2 giving it a steady platform on most surfaces and offering handy dandy holding bins for small parts like spoke nipples and your Park Tool spoke wrenches.

Park also helps you extend the useful life of your truing stand by offering a full service kit and service instructions.

In my travels around the world wide web I’ve come across a number of bike repair tool lists for the person looking to set up their own home shop. The Pedal Wrench will soon post our own version of such a list. The one item I find absent from most of these tool lists I’ve seen is a shop apron.

When I think about what an apron does for me when I work on bicycles, I might place it in the highest priority tier of bike repair necessities. While an apron won’t loosen a pedal that’s been installed too tightly, it will provide you with many benefits while you perform the task. The evil chain ring monster is always looking to leave it’s mark on clean clothes and they tend to be permanent scars. Alleviating the concern for grease stained clothing is a huge advantage in the situation of a tight pedal because you get to focus on the pedal itself.

Walking up to a bike in a bike repair stand with all of the tools to complete the task at hand is an enormous time saver. Let me give you an example, a new chain installation. Before I leave the work bench I will put the new chain, master link, chain tool, rag, and lube in the pockets of my apron. I walk up to the bicycle and remove the old chain with the chain tool. I measure and cut the new chain to the proper length, again with the chain tool. The old chain and chain tool go in my pockets. After I install the new chain on the bike I take the master link out of my pocket to connect the ends. The rag is used to remove the sticky goo that comes on the new chain and wipe off the excess lube after it’s applied. At the end of that simple task the apron saved 3 or more trips to the workbench. That efficiency gain is huge over the course of building a complete bicycle or many repairs.

Go buy a plaid apron with ruffles from Bed, Bath, and Beyond. It will keep your clothes cleaner and it has pockets to hold small items and tools. While this apron would offer some of the benefits I’ve discussed, over time the shortcomings would become more apparent. So what makes a bike mechanic’s apron more functional? Durability, comfort, and performance are the three aspects that I look at in an apron.

The durability is very important, but harder to judge at the time of purchase. Some aprons fall apart under normal use, some withstand the affects of everyday bike shop life, but disintegrate when washed, and some stand the test of time. Generally, the pockets and straps will fail first.

As heavy bicycle tools fill the pockets and the hours wear on in the bike shop, the comfort of an apron becomes an issue. Most “high end” shop aprons have gone to a criss cross strap design that better distribute the weight of the apron and tools on the bike mechanic. This design sets the straps wider on the shoulders and almost completely removes the weight on the neck. The simple two strap design that can be seen on the previously mentioned plaid apron is not what a bike mechanic wants. Trust me.

How does an apron perform well? For me, it’s all about coverage and containment. The more area an apron covers the more shorts and shirts I save from grease and grime, and that saves money. The pockets of a shop apron should hold a generous amount of bike tools, and most do. The key is for those bike tools to stay put until needed and be easily accessible when needed. I have nightmares of an apron that would throw my tools all over the floor in a loud metallic discord each time I bent down. It made me the laughing stock of the bike shop which has probably scarred me for life, not to mention all of the time I spent picking up my tools.

Now I’d like to introduce you to the Fox Wrench Apron from Fox Racing Products. This apron has been my friend in the bike shop for almost a year now. The cotton construction has withstood the test of time and multiple trips to the washing machine. The pockets of the Wrench Apron are well thought out and hold everything you need regularly and then some. They very rarely spew bike tools and bike parts on the floor of the shop, saving me time and face. It even has a beer pocket and bottle opener for after all the repairs are finished. The inside hand pockets allow me to put my keys, wallet, or cell phone away without sticking my greasy hands in the pockets of my shorts or pants. While the apron is as comfortable as they come, the pockets are large enough to excessively overload, so remember to empty them every once in a while or the back and shoulders will suffer.

Up until this point, the only aspect I’m not psyched on is the graphics, but those don’t really matter, and they are unique. At around $30, this apron is a great value for a great product and will probably be the last apron you buy for your shop. It also works great for BBQing.

• 100% Cotton.
• Screen printed graphics.
• 4 large pockets, 1 pocket w/ flap, 4 smaller pockets for tools, 1 pen pocket and 2 hand pockets on inside.
• Special side pockets sized to fit a beer bottle; also comes with a custom Fox head bottle opener.

If it’s one thing I’ve learned about competitive cycling, it’s 71.2% mental.  A competitive cyclist’s psychological approach to situations, both racing and training, can make or break careers or races.  The ability to climb on the bike when it’s too hot, too wet, too cold, or too windy is part of it, but knowing their physical limits is also key.  Sense of when to obey the boundaries that the body has instituted, when to push past them, and for how long. 

These basic examples are just the tip of the iceberg when talking about what a racer’s head must sort through in order to be as fast and efficient as their fitness will allow.  The top race teams will ensure their top pros have nothing to worry about but going fast.  Subaru/Gary Fisher Mountain Bike Team’s Willow Koeber told me the only things on her mind were picking up imaginary gold coins from the race course (kind of like in Super Mario Bros.)  and causing change in the earth’s rotation with each pedal stroke.  Probably why she’s such a great short track racer.  We should all be so lucky.  I think most of us have at least the slight thoughts of utter suffering on our brains in race situations, no matter what.  I’m sure Willow and her teammates rarely go into a race with a bike that is less than mechanically perfect, which is why riders on that caliber of a team have learned to not even consider skipping gears at start time.  They are well aware that they have a strong team backing them and doing what it takes to make sure they can focus on riding bikes fast. 

Which brings me to the point of this post.  The Pedal Wrench is offering pro team level race and ride support for cyclists that don’t want to worry about the chain not dropping from the middle to the small ring.  I for see the endurance racers, namely 24 hour racers, truly benefiting from this service.  The Pedal Wrench has a complete mobile shop that can be set up anywhere in the western United States.  Besides tools, we offer a pop up tent, generator, significant outdoor lighting, espresso machine, and a long list of other race pit necessities.  We can even arrive stocked with the parts your bike may need over the course of the race.

Prices will vary by event, location, and job description.  To give you an idea, a 4 person team at the 24 Hours of Moab mountain bike race will cost in the ballpark of $800.  That’s only $200 per racer, a small price to pay for mechanical piece of mind on race day.  That rate includes all the labor/bike repairs and we’ll even make sure the bike gets sent home shiny and happy. However, any bike parts used would be extra.

This is an opportunity to gain one of the huge advantages the pro teams have over the rest of us.  Seems to make sense!  Input on the value/price of this service is welcome.  

  

There are a few tools I use more than any others, and until just a moment ago I would have listed the 5mm hex wrench and my homemade spoke poker as the top two. As I write this I realize that my repair stand is actually used more than any other tool in the shop. I’m actually using it now and I’m not even working on a bike.

A bike repair stand is the mechanic’s way of having a stable platform to clean, inspect, build, and adjust a bicycle. Most repairs would be possible without the use of a bike stand, but struggle is often the case. The repair stand will stabilize the bike and articulate to give the mechanic the best view of the part of the bicycle needing attention. The ability to bring the ailing part of the bike closer to eye level is a huge advantage. You can also use a bike repair stand as a fancy kickstand when you just need to store a bike.

For someone that’s never used a bike repair stand it’s hard to know what to look for in a stand. There is more than likely going to be some compromise when deciding on a stand to aid in fixing your bicycle. Price is always a consideration, but what else should influence the decision? In my opinion, durability, portability, and stability are the key factors. Most repair stands will hold a bike with no problem, especially if you go for an established brand. How well and how long are where stands start to differentiate from one another.

The Ultimate Support Pro Elite Repair Stand is a top contender in the portable bicycle repair stand world. The 13lb repair stand folds down with the flip of a couple quick release levers and slides right into it’s own little duffel bag. No need to make special arrangements transporting the Pro Elite Repair Stand from place to place, it’ll fit just about anywhere. Folded down, the Pro Elite Stand is as compact as any other stand I’m aware of.

The ease of transport is irrelevant if the stand doesn’t make working on a bike easier. The first thing I noticed when I removed the stand from the box was the newly redesigned clamp. Ultimate improved on the knob that tightens the clamp around the bicycle and added a large release button for easier removal of the bike. The Ultimate claims “industrial strength”, and I definitely had zero problems over the course of weeks of use and hundreds of bikes. It even handles tandems and downhill bikes that weigh upwards of 60lbs with no problem. Besides being burly, the clamp is about the easiest clamp I’ve used to date. Getting it properly adjusted with one hand was no problem. The release button was a nice feature too, the clamp is instantly loosened once you hit the button. You just have to be careful about hitting the button while working on the bike. I fell victim to that once, but once my awareness was raised it wasn’t an issue again.

The set up of the Pro Elite Stand is as easy as th break down….maybe easier. The tripod easily opens every time and secures with a quick release lever. The height adjustment is also secured with a quick release and offers short to as high as I would ever want. The clamp arm is secured with a knob and let you adjust the angle of the clamp and how the bike is positioned. If I had to guess, I would say the total set up takes about 20 seconds. That’s darn quick.

The lightweight aluminum construction does have a bit of flex, especially with the heavier bikes. The amount of flex was certainly acceptable, and compared with other manufacturers designs, is well worth the exceptional weight savings. Besides that, care should be taken in positioning the tripod legs to the bike. One incident with the wind caused a bike and stand to fall over, but again, my raised awareness kept that from being an issue again.

The Ultimate Support Pro Elite Bike Repair Stand receives a 5 of 5 rating from me after a significant amount of use. Portable stands will never be as stable as the 300lb shop stands and they don’t need to be. The price of the Pro Elite stand is makes it a decent value and works at least $100 better than most of it’s competitors. The customer service department at Ultimate Support is easy to deal with should there be an issue with the product.

The Pedal Wrench highly recommends the Ultimate Support Pro Elite Bike Repair Stand and is claiming it’s the best portable or stationary home mechanic’s stand on the market today. Check it out.