You have a rim, you have a hub, and now you need to decide what length spokes you’ll need to assemble a usable wheel with them. If you plan on buying spokes at the local bike shop, it may be easiest to have them come up with the appropriate spoke length. If you like to figure things out yourself, you can find help on the web in many forms.

Any spoke calculator you find on the internet will require you to enter some information. Just how much information depends on the web site’s spoke calculator and the popularity of the components of your wheel. Popular rims and hubs can often be chosen from a list. For these, the needed values will be provided with the exception of the number of spoke holes and the number of crosses your spokes will be laced with.

Having to measure for the needed values isn’t the end of the world. Some of the web sites will help you through the measurements but you will need a sliding caliper and a tape measure to get those measurements.

Here are some spoke calculators and information about wheel building you may find useful.

DT Swiss This happens to be my favorite, probably because it’s the easiest. Sign in as an anonymous user.

Sheldon Brown

spokelength.com

United Bicycle Institute

wheelpro.co.uk

appliedthought.com Great instructions!

Good luck building!

A good portion of knowing the answer is knowing where to find it. Of course this holds true when you’re trying to fix a new malady on your trusty steed or even on the most basic things like installing a cycle computer. In most cases the people that wrote the instructions have performed said task more than once or twice. I recommend reading the directions twice before beginning anything. The guys at Park Tools have fixed a few bikes and that’s why their Big Blue Book of Bike Repair is so darn good. Aimed at the home mechanic, the book offers easy to understand explanations of bike repair tasks accompanied by helpful photos.

Product description:

A new book on bike repair from the company that wrote the book on bike repair products. Calvin Jones, Education Director at Park Tool, provides easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions for keeping any road or mountain bike running smoothly. From tire repair and derailleur adjustment to wheel truing and bottom bracket replacement, The Big Blue Book of Bike Repair provides both the novice and veteran mechanic with the information needed to perform nearly any repair. Special topics such as tool selection, bike cleaning, and on-the-trail repairs are also covered, and an appendix at the back of the book provides valuable reference materials. Up to date with the latest technology, The Big Blue Book of Bike Repair is packed four hundred photos, as well as repair tips garnered from the author’s 30 years as an educator and mechanic.

A great book to keep in the tool box or next to the bed. Buy it here.

It’s time to install some pedals on a bike. If you are in possession of a pedal wrench and some bike grease, you are ready to tackle the pedal installation. No need to run to the local bike shop.

In order to understand what you’re about to read, you’ll need a quick lesson in pedal and bike anatomy. First thing first, whenever referring to right or left on a bicycle, it’s as if you were sitting on the saddle of the bicycle with your hands on the handlebar. Therefore the right side of the bike generally has the drivetrain( derailleurs, gears, and chain). I say “generally” because there are some exceptions. Disc brake calipers are typically mounted to the left side of a bicycle. You get the idea. The center of the bike is a plane that would split the rider, tires, and frame, perpendicular to the ground.

The pedals thread into the right and left crank arms. The large threaded part of the pedal is the pedal spindle, some times called a pedal axle. The part of the pedal that contacts your foot is the pedal body. The pedal body spins on the spindle with the help of bushings or bearings, and a bit of grease. The pedal spindle will have the wrench surfaces that dictate what type of wrench you should use.

The proper pedal wrench is dependent on the pedals on the bike, and more specifically what the pedal spindle has been designed to be compatible with. The most common pedal wrench is probably the 15mm open ended wrench which works on pedals that have wrench flats on the spindle, between the crank arm and the pedal body. There are also pedals that use a similar 9/16″ wrench. The 9/16″ and the 15mm are close in size and appearance and care should be taken to use the proper wrench, especially if your pedal wrench offers both. If the pedal is designed to be used with a hex pedal wrench, the hex socket is found at the end of the spindle, on the inside of the crank arm. These hex sockets on the pedals will be either 6mm or 8mm. Whichever style wrench the pedal is designed to accept, be sure to use a wrench designed specifically for pedals! It will make life easier.

Before you begin the installation, place the bicycle in a stable position. A bike repair stand is best, but leaning it against a wall or flipping it upside down will do just fine. Next, clean the threads on the cranks and the pedals. Once the surfaces are clean you can apply a small amount of bicycle grease to the pedal threads. The grease will help combat corrosion, noise, and seizing, making the pedal’s removal easier later.

Pedals are left and right specific and deciding which is which can be accomplished through a few ways. If there are an L(for left) and an R(for right) stamped into the pedal spindle consider yourself lucky and move on to the next step. Sometimes just one pedal will be stamped with the distinguishing L or R, so check both. If a pedal has a toe clip, is one sided, or is a directional pedal, there is only one direction the pedals can be mounted and remain functional. Hold the pedals up to the bicycle to figure out which is right and left. You can grab your cycling shoes to check how the shoe attaches to the pedal in a clipless pedal and shoe system if you aren’t sure. If none of those work for your situation, hold the pedal up in front of you. Hold the pedal by the pedal body with the spindle pointing threaded end up. The threads on the spindle will appear to have a high and a low side. If the threads run up and to the left, it’s the left pedal. If the threads run up and to the right, it’s the right pedal. Holding both pedals next to each other can make picking up the slight slope of the threads easier on your eyes.

Getting the pedal threads started can be the toughest challenge of the whole process. Sometimes it’s so challenging I will go back to check if I am trying to install the correct side pedal. Double checking is always good too. You’ll want to use your finger to get the pedal started into the crank. By using your fingers you have more control and a better feel in order to get the threads started. Cross threading is a term for what occurs when you thread something in crooked. It is very bad in the world of pedals and cranks. Finger starting the pedals doesn’t allow you enough force on the pedal to mis form the metal threads.

To install the right pedal hold the pedal spindle perpendicular to the right crank so that it lines up with the threaded hole in the crank. Turning the pedal spindle to the right, or clockwise, while holding it in the proper position will start the pedal threads. Use one hand to hold the pedal body to stabilize while the other hand turns the pedal spindle. Got that? To the right. Install the right pedal by turning the spindle to the right(clockwise).

To install the left pedal use the same two handed technique as with the right. The only difference is the left pedal has a left thread, or reverse thread. That means you’ll have to install the left pedal by turning the pedal spindle to the left(counter clockwise). This is opposite of what we are used to as our standard threads are righty tighty. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread.

A couple more thoughts on pedal installation. If you can’t get a pedal started and you are positive it’s the correct side, you may need to re tap the thread to clean them. Threads can easily be damaged. Most shops will have pedal taps and the job is usually quick and easy. About your pedal wrench, it is designed with a long handle for making pedal removal easier if the pedal has been overtightened. The long handle is not to overtighten the pedals. You do not want them to come loose, but you’ll probably want to get them off some day. If you aren’t sure what the proper torque for your pedals are, check with a professional mechanic for some help. Good luck.

Pedals need to be removed for various reasons. Travel, shipment, pedal replacement, pedal service, or maybe your selling a bike and you just want your pedals back. In any case, it’s not always so convenient to run down to the local bike shop. If you are in possession of the proper tools, this task can be handled easily without going anywhere.

In order to understand what you’re about to read, you’ll need a quick lesson in pedal and bike anatomy. First thing first, whenever referring to right or left on a bicycle, it’s as if you were sitting on the saddle of the bicycle with your hands on the handlebar. Therefore the right side of the bike generally has the drivetrain( derailleurs, gears, and chain). I say “generally” because there are some exceptions. Disc brake calipers are typically mounted to the left side of a bicycle. You get the idea. The center of the bike is a plane that would split the rider, tires, and frame, perpendicular to the ground.

The pedals thread into the right and left crank arms. The large threaded metal part of the pedal is the pedal spindle, some times called a pedal axle. The part of the pedal that contacts your foot is the pedal body. The pedal body spins on the spindle with the help of bushings or bearings, and a bit of grease. The pedal spindle will have the wrench surfaces that dictate what type of wrench you should use.

The proper pedal wrench is dependent on the pedals on the bike, and more specifically what the pedal spindle has been designed to be compatible with. The most common pedal wrench is probably the 15mm open ended wrench which works on pedals that have wrench flats on the spindle, between the crank arm and the pedal body. There are also pedals that use a similar 9/16″ wrench. The 9/16″ and the 15mm are close in size and appearance and care should be taken to use the proper wrench, especially if your pedal wrench offers both. If the pedal is designed to be used with a hex pedal wrench, the hex socket is found at the end of the spindle, on the inside of the crank arm. These hex sockets on the pedals will be either 6mm or 8mm. Whichever style the pedal is designed to accept, be sure to use a wrench designed specifically for pedals! It will make life easier.

A couple more things before you remove that pedal. Shift your chain up to the big chain ring(outermost). By covering the teeth on that chain ring you can help avoid the occasional blood letting that goes with pedal removal. I’ve even started to wear my mechanic’s gloves(cheap rubberized gardening gloves) all the time because I’m sick of bloody knuckles. The point is, be careful.

As I like things to be easy, I recommend positioning the bike so it’s stable, while offering you both hands free to work. A bike repair stand would be best, but leaning it against a wall, or even flipping it upside down will do just fine.

Pedals are left and right specific. Because the pedals are on the bike, it’s fairly easy to tell which pedal is left and which is right. Let’s start with the right pedal. The right pedal will unthread from the crank as the spindle turns counter clockwise. When you place the pedal wrench on the wrench flats or in the hex socket be sure keep the angle between the wrench and the crank arm less than 90 degrees. The advantage gained by proper wrench position is crucial as pedals are often victim to severe over tightening. See pics below.

These photos show two different kinds of pedal wrenches at an angle less than 90 degrees to the crank.

Use one hand to help steady the bike or hold the opposite crank arm for more leverage. Grasping the pedal wrench at the end of the handle, apply force in the counter clockwise direction. Many pedals will have a noticeable threshold between tight and loose, but some will require brute force throughout the removal of the pedal. Consider the right pedal removed

The left pedal will be removed the same way, except the wrench will need to be turned clockwise. The left pedal has a left thread, also called a reverse thread. The left hand thread is opposite of what most would consider the standard or a righty tighty thread. Therefore in removal of the left pedal, force must be applied to the wrench in a clockwise direction. Once you can remember that the left pedal has a left thread, you are ruling pedal removal. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread.

That’s it. These helping hints should lead you to easy pedal removal.

I’m off to Moab tomorrow afternoon. The 24 Hours of Moab starts on Saturday, and since I’ll be 1 of 2 wrenches for the 4 teams that Pereira Cycles has entered in the event, I want to make sure our pit location is prime. Today is prep day and I don’t want to forget anything, so I thought I’d make a list. Here it is.

Tools & Lubes: PCBR Spoker, shop apron, repair stands, wheel truing stand, air tank, air compressor, air compressor hose, air compressor attachments(schrader, presta, air gun), pressure washer(handy in muddy situations, but set it on low), pedal wrenches(6mm hex, 8mm hex, 15mm open end), multiple multi tools, hex wrenches(2 sets), open/box metric wrenches, 3/32 hex wrench(for Chris King Hubs), Flat head screwdrivers(little to big and everything in between, phillips screwdrivers(full size run), tire levers, spoke wrenches(Mavic, Shimano, standard), chain tools, tire pressure gauge, brake bleed kits(Hayes, Magura, Avid), Knipex Plier Wrench(a TPW favorite), diagonal cutters, housing cutters, chain lube, degreaser, hand cleaner, rubbing alcohol, safety glasses, hack saw, spare hack saw blade, bottom bracket tools, cassette tool, torque wrench, magnetic parts tray, chain whip, crank pullers, cone wrenches, floor pumps, lock ring wrench, chain whip, headset wrenches, wire brush, toothbrush, scrub brush, calipers, measuring tape, spanner tools(great for eccentric bbs), toe straps, clamps …….

Spare Parts: derailleurs, derailleur cables, derailleur housing, brake cables, brake housing, brake ferrules, shift ferrules, brake pads(Hayes, Magura, Avid), brake lines, brake fittings, brake fluids, brake rotors, spokes, chains(single speed, 9 speed), Shimano chain pins, Sram Power Links, Stan’s No Tubes Solution, Nite Rider light mounts, chain ring bolts, spokes, my bike, hair spray, 26″ tires, 26″ tubes, 29″ tires, 29″ tubes, Sram shifters, Shimano shifters………

Misc.: table, headlamp, work lights, stationary trainer, front wheel block, carpet, pop up canopy, tie downs, buckets, chairs, Trixi’s bed, Trixi food, Trixi bowls, pit bike, yoga ball(crucial), goggles(in case of dust/sand storm), sleeping bag, pillow, extension cords, outlet splitters, tunes, rags, paper towels, hand cleaner, flooring …………

I’m positive I’ve left some things out. I do like to be over prepared but forgetting a few things isn’t usually a big issue. In my experience, there’s always a solution to be found for any mechanical problem, right in the pit area. The 24 hour racing community creates a friendly and supportive environment for everyone. Hopefully we’ll see you there.

Seeing the world by bicycle gives one a unique perspective on the surroundings that a traveler wouldn’t get in a car, on a motorcycle, or in a tour bus. The sounds and the smells are often missed, drowned out by the engine or kept at bay by the windows. Even some sights tend to be overlooked with the speeds and distractions that are associated with a combustion engine.

For the past few years, The Pedal Wrench has been providing technical support for Marty Jemison Cycling Tours and the groups of cyclists they lead around Europe. The opportunity has allowed me to become very aware of the extra logistical details that go along with lugging your bike around the world. Whether traveling by plane, train, boat, bus, car, or van, there are considerations to be made involving your bicycle. Taking care of a few things before you leave can save time, money, and anguish, and allow the trip to be what it’s meant to be…..vacation.

With the destination in mind, decide if your bicycle is the best option or if you need to consider renting. There are more than a few options for getting a bike to a distant location on the globe, but is it worth it? The obstacles and conditions faced in foreign lands make the memories of the trip, and proper equipment helps keep the memories positive. Terrain, cost, road conditions, crime, accommodations, transportation, and access to bike service/parts should be major considerations in the decision.

The terrain ahead needs to be met with the right bike. Sometimes deciding between taking a road or a mountain bike is not a clear and apparent choice. Will the gears on your bike get you up the hills on your 5th day of riding in a row? Many road riders traveling to mountainous regions will go for a triple front chain ring, a compact crank, or a mountain cassette and rear derailleur, any of which would come in handy when the road kicks up to an %18+ grade. Are the wheels and tires suited to the road or trail conditions where you’re going?

If something on the bike breaks will you be able to repair it? Exotic places don’t always embrace exotic bike parts making proprietary spokes and other parts hard to come by. In certain situations bike parts that excel in strength are better than parts that are lacking in weight.

A bicycle in transit is subject to bumps, bangs, crunches, and squashes once it leaves your sight. The way the bike is packed will help it avoid damage, but no case or packing job can save your bike in every scenario. Make sure the full value of your bike is insured if misfortune meets your bike somewhere along the way. Airlines and shipping services cover your bicycle in various ways and for various amounts, it’s worth reading the fine print. Along the same lines, if you plan on taking the bus, boat, or train with your bike you may find yourself stuffing it into less than ideal places, just so it fits.

Bicycle thieves can ruin a vacation quickly. The loss of a bike to theft is upsetting any time, but when it’s a major component in your plans for the immediate future, it really, really sucks. A quality lock and a little awareness go a long way. Park and lock your bike in smart places, and not for too long. Hotel rooms and cars get robbed all the time, lock your bike in hotels and cars too. If your bike is super flashy and/or expensive, bike thieves will fancy it that much more, you may consider leaving it behind.

The parts on a bicycle can fall victim too. Easily removable parts, like quick release wheels and seat posts are targeted first. If possible, lock the wheels and take the seat. A seat binder with a bolt instead of a quick release will deter most opportunistic thieves. It’s still a good idea to keep an eye on it as much as possible.

If your bicycle is going to make the trip with you, it will need some sort of container. The subject of which bicycle box or bag is the best would lead to a lengthy conversation among many. If this trip is a first and only, renting a bike box or bike bag may be the best option. Check with your local bike shops to see if they offer box/bag rentals. A cardboard bike box is a cheap(usually free), disposable alternative to buying an expensive case. You can even put it in the recycling bin when you get to where you’re going. Be sure and allow a few days to locate another cardboard bike box before your departure.

If purchasing a bike box/bag is more up your alley you should weigh your options. Some companies offer double bike bags/boxes, and you don’t have to travel with two bikes all the time. Some options will ship cheaper than others since shipping companies generally charge on the basis of size more than weight. Hard cases arguably offer more protection but can require more forethought since they don’t fit in a lot of rental cars, European cars are tiny, and aren’t fun on the train. The less mechanically inclined may want a model with less bike disassembly/assembly required at the start and finish of the adventure.

Shipping a bike via a shipping company is an option that offers lower effort and stress in the airports, trains, and taxis you may encounter en route. Making your connection after waiting for your bike in customs isn’t always easy. The airline will probably be the cheapest option, sometimes a smile will get your bike on, sometimes they charge $100 or so, each way. Airline policy is enforced in a consistently inconsistent nature, you’ll rarely get the same answer twice. If you don’t like what one airline employee says, politely try another. Like mentioned earlier, check on the coverage of your property while in the care of others. In my experience, the shipping companies are slightly more driven to find misplaced items than the airlines. A bicycle vacation with no bicycle is less than ideal.

If renting a bike is something that you’ll be needing to do, it’s a good idea to plan way ahead. Find the local bike rental shops and do a little research. Getting the information you need isn’t always easy, but you only need to make sure the bikes suit your needs and that they’re available. It never hurts to have a back up plan, just in case.

Packing is your chance to guess what situations you may encounter and what items you”ll need to deal with them. For example, obviously you would want to bring your bike shoes and pedals if you have them, and packing them in your carry on luggage will be greatly appreciated if any or all of your baggage is lost. The tools to reassemble your bike should make their way in the bike bag or bike box, maybe a folding tool will do the job. A full size pedal wrench can be a welcome sight after discovering an overtightened pedal. You should also pack items for roadside repairs, it’s much easier in a place you’re familiar with, in a language you actually speak and understand. Check with TSA and/or your airline to find out if CO2 cartridges and other questionable items are allowed, before you pack them. Each trip will require a different amount of preparedness and in different areas.

Some of the issues you face on the road can be extra challenging because of a language barrier. Maps are foreign, signs are foreign, and the responses you get to questions are typically not in English. Different cultures have different holidays and you should make yourself aware of any that may interfere with your vacation. Finding fuel or food on St. Whatever day is almost impossible in many countries. A wise person told me it would take me twice as long to do anything I needed to do in Europe. That, I’ve found, holds true there and elsewhere in the world. The United States is all about convenience and commercialism, fortunately the whole world isn’t like that, but it does mean some adjustments in time management. In general, being in a rush on vacation is no good anyway.

Sometimes it’s better to leave things up to the experts. There are tour companies out there that want to help you get where you want to go. These companies offer products to fit many budgets and time frames. Certain tour operators are more accommodating, and others take care of the logistics and send you on your way. If you decide to go with a tour company, do some digging. Find out as much as you can about it so you know what to expect.

Deciding to do a self guided cycling vacation is a large commitment, but it’s not rocket surgery. Planning will get you everywhere, and sometimes you have to slow down to speed up. As long as you don’t approach the endeavor underestimating it, the vacation will turn out great. At least you won’t be at work.

I found these websites full of useful information on the subject.

www.bikeaccess.net

www.bicycletour.com

In my travels around the world wide web I’ve come across a number of bike repair tool lists for the person looking to set up their own home shop. The Pedal Wrench will soon post our own version of such a list. The one item I find absent from most of these tool lists I’ve seen is a shop apron.

When I think about what an apron does for me when I work on bicycles, I might place it in the highest priority tier of bike repair necessities. While an apron won’t loosen a pedal that’s been installed too tightly, it will provide you with many benefits while you perform the task. The evil chain ring monster is always looking to leave it’s mark on clean clothes and they tend to be permanent scars. Alleviating the concern for grease stained clothing is a huge advantage in the situation of a tight pedal because you get to focus on the pedal itself.

Walking up to a bike in a bike repair stand with all of the tools to complete the task at hand is an enormous time saver. Let me give you an example, a new chain installation. Before I leave the work bench I will put the new chain, master link, chain tool, rag, and lube in the pockets of my apron. I walk up to the bicycle and remove the old chain with the chain tool. I measure and cut the new chain to the proper length, again with the chain tool. The old chain and chain tool go in my pockets. After I install the new chain on the bike I take the master link out of my pocket to connect the ends. The rag is used to remove the sticky goo that comes on the new chain and wipe off the excess lube after it’s applied. At the end of that simple task the apron saved 3 or more trips to the workbench. That efficiency gain is huge over the course of building a complete bicycle or many repairs.

Go buy a plaid apron with ruffles from Bed, Bath, and Beyond. It will keep your clothes cleaner and it has pockets to hold small items and tools. While this apron would offer some of the benefits I’ve discussed, over time the shortcomings would become more apparent. So what makes a bike mechanic’s apron more functional? Durability, comfort, and performance are the three aspects that I look at in an apron.

The durability is very important, but harder to judge at the time of purchase. Some aprons fall apart under normal use, some withstand the affects of everyday bike shop life, but disintegrate when washed, and some stand the test of time. Generally, the pockets and straps will fail first.

As heavy bicycle tools fill the pockets and the hours wear on in the bike shop, the comfort of an apron becomes an issue. Most “high end” shop aprons have gone to a criss cross strap design that better distribute the weight of the apron and tools on the bike mechanic. This design sets the straps wider on the shoulders and almost completely removes the weight on the neck. The simple two strap design that can be seen on the previously mentioned plaid apron is not what a bike mechanic wants. Trust me.

How does an apron perform well? For me, it’s all about coverage and containment. The more area an apron covers the more shorts and shirts I save from grease and grime, and that saves money. The pockets of a shop apron should hold a generous amount of bike tools, and most do. The key is for those bike tools to stay put until needed and be easily accessible when needed. I have nightmares of an apron that would throw my tools all over the floor in a loud metallic discord each time I bent down. It made me the laughing stock of the bike shop which has probably scarred me for life, not to mention all of the time I spent picking up my tools.

Now I’d like to introduce you to the Fox Wrench Apron from Fox Racing Products. This apron has been my friend in the bike shop for almost a year now. The cotton construction has withstood the test of time and multiple trips to the washing machine. The pockets of the Wrench Apron are well thought out and hold everything you need regularly and then some. They very rarely spew bike tools and bike parts on the floor of the shop, saving me time and face. It even has a beer pocket and bottle opener for after all the repairs are finished. The inside hand pockets allow me to put my keys, wallet, or cell phone away without sticking my greasy hands in the pockets of my shorts or pants. While the apron is as comfortable as they come, the pockets are large enough to excessively overload, so remember to empty them every once in a while or the back and shoulders will suffer.

Up until this point, the only aspect I’m not psyched on is the graphics, but those don’t really matter, and they are unique. At around $30, this apron is a great value for a great product and will probably be the last apron you buy for your shop. It also works great for BBQing.

• 100% Cotton.
• Screen printed graphics.
• 4 large pockets, 1 pocket w/ flap, 4 smaller pockets for tools, 1 pen pocket and 2 hand pockets on inside.
• Special side pockets sized to fit a beer bottle; also comes with a custom Fox head bottle opener.

Most Americans would consider bicycling an environmentally friendly activity. And I would agree that going for a bike ride has much less of an impact on earth than taking the old gas guzzler for a drive. But what about the footprint that cycling as an industry leaves on our globe?

Cycling is the most efficient form of transportation, but over 100 million bicycles are produced in the world annually. That is a lot of production and then consider all of the tubes, tires, and accessories that go along with that. Where will these bicycles be in 15 years? Even if half of those bicycles are still being utilized, 50 million bikes is a gigantic pile of scrap bikes. So what can we do with ridable but dated bikes that would otherwise end up abandoned, scrapped, or forgotten about?

Park City is not your hit the boardwalk beach cruiser kind of town. If a bike only has one gear it had better be an easy one. Main Street in Park City is a consistently nagging hill that I live way at the top of. The whole thing is only about a half mile and it’s only a 5% or 6 % grade, but it will leave most short of breathe and looking for easier gears. The ride home from the bar or a gorging at a local restaurant is an especially tough endeavor and you can count on the Main Street trolley to be going the wrong way.

In 2003 an early 90s Mongoose mountain bike was left in the garage of 28 Prospect Ave, my new residence. This bike was destined to spend the rest of it’s existence under the back deck. The Mongoose was not that sweet, even when it was a new bike, and now it was antiquated, rusty, and lacking in all cool factors. The misfortune of a friend turned out to be the saving grace for the old bike. The need for affordable(free) transportation and low impact excercise made the Mongoose an easy choice.

The bike needed some love before it could be ridden. Lube, cable, and housing would bring the bike back to functional status, but it seriously lacked in style. The solutions were considered and then applied to the ugly bicycle. Ape hanger handlebars were installed giving the rider a relaxed and upright position. The 26″ mountain bike wheel was taken off the front and a 20″ BMX wheel was substituted. Since the front brakes were useless with this new front wheel the brake bosses were ground off of the fork to give a cleaner, sleeker look. A Mexican flag color scheme was sprayed on the frame and fork to cover the scrapes and scars accumulated over the years. Since small details can bring the level of the bigger picture up, a “Little Homie” was zip tied to the head tube and the Sexy Mexi was born.

This makeover was a fresh breathe of life for the bicycle. The Sexy Mexi could be seen all over town, at all of the hippest hangout spots. The bike was the perfect townie. It had a distinct creative style, a full range of gears, and a price tag that allowed it to be left unlocked in front of most establishments around town.

When, Sophia, the owner of the “Mongoose” approached us about the bicycle she had left behind years earlier, I was shocked. The Sexy Mexi was reluctantly turned over, but it didn’t care. Sophia quickly gained a deep appreciation for her resurrected ride and she could be seen pedaling it about town, it even made the trip to Burning Man with her. The bike became a beacon for locating Sophia and friends.

A new problem faced 28 Prospect, we no longer had a townie. Kris Gray and I started building our new town cruisers immediately. We learned from our experience with the Sexy Mexi and allowed friendly competition to inspire our new designs. Soon we were riding around town on some new recycled bicycles. Our new generation of townies were even cooler, more functional, and more stylie. Within no time people were approaching Kris and I about getting their own recycled bikes.

So it began. The Park City Bicycle Recyclers was born to meet the need for affordable geared townies in our community. The bonus for us is the ability to use bicycles and bicycle parts that would otherwise end up wasted in a landfill. As we continue, we learn new ways to reuse different parts which makes for a constant evolution of our recycled bicycles. Our bicycles are consistently unique giving them an artistic quality appreciated by our clients.

The Park City Bicycle Recyclers offers an alternative to the overpriced townies you find at the bike shop. Besides that, we are able to cut down on the waste from our supposedly green sport, even if just a drop in the very large bucket. Remember, Earth day every day!

Keep an eye out for the website and other PCBR happenings.

If it’s one thing I’ve learned about competitive cycling, it’s 71.2% mental.  A competitive cyclist’s psychological approach to situations, both racing and training, can make or break careers or races.  The ability to climb on the bike when it’s too hot, too wet, too cold, or too windy is part of it, but knowing their physical limits is also key.  Sense of when to obey the boundaries that the body has instituted, when to push past them, and for how long. 

These basic examples are just the tip of the iceberg when talking about what a racer’s head must sort through in order to be as fast and efficient as their fitness will allow.  The top race teams will ensure their top pros have nothing to worry about but going fast.  Subaru/Gary Fisher Mountain Bike Team’s Willow Koeber told me the only things on her mind were picking up imaginary gold coins from the race course (kind of like in Super Mario Bros.)  and causing change in the earth’s rotation with each pedal stroke.  Probably why she’s such a great short track racer.  We should all be so lucky.  I think most of us have at least the slight thoughts of utter suffering on our brains in race situations, no matter what.  I’m sure Willow and her teammates rarely go into a race with a bike that is less than mechanically perfect, which is why riders on that caliber of a team have learned to not even consider skipping gears at start time.  They are well aware that they have a strong team backing them and doing what it takes to make sure they can focus on riding bikes fast. 

Which brings me to the point of this post.  The Pedal Wrench is offering pro team level race and ride support for cyclists that don’t want to worry about the chain not dropping from the middle to the small ring.  I for see the endurance racers, namely 24 hour racers, truly benefiting from this service.  The Pedal Wrench has a complete mobile shop that can be set up anywhere in the western United States.  Besides tools, we offer a pop up tent, generator, significant outdoor lighting, espresso machine, and a long list of other race pit necessities.  We can even arrive stocked with the parts your bike may need over the course of the race.

Prices will vary by event, location, and job description.  To give you an idea, a 4 person team at the 24 Hours of Moab mountain bike race will cost in the ballpark of $800.  That’s only $200 per racer, a small price to pay for mechanical piece of mind on race day.  That rate includes all the labor/bike repairs and we’ll even make sure the bike gets sent home shiny and happy. However, any bike parts used would be extra.

This is an opportunity to gain one of the huge advantages the pro teams have over the rest of us.  Seems to make sense!  Input on the value/price of this service is welcome.  

  

In a perfect world bicycle tubes would grow on trees. They would be free and have no environmental impact. Maybe they wouldn’t go flat at all and you could use a tube throughout your whole life and even pass it on to generations. But tubes do go flat and aren’t free and they don’t just disappear from the face of the earth. That is why The Pedal Wrench suggests patching tubes. However, I rarely patch tubes on the trail. Having a spare ready to go is fast and courteous to your riding company.

Patching tubes is something I do in my spare time in the comfort of my home. I’ll typically have a few tubes in the rotation and will sit down and patch multiple tubes in a patch session. The lack of debris, time constraint, and stress makes the task much easier to deal with and boosts the success rate.

My life is filled with bicycle tubes. I deal with them all the time. Something I’ve learned to do to save myself time and frustration is to tie a knot in punctured tubes. This is an obvious reminder that the tube does not hold air and it needs to be patched. Trust me, it helps a lot.

While I’m on the subject of patching I’ll run through some helpful pointers on getting a tube patched successfully.

1. Locate the hole. I usually inflate the tube and listen/feel for the hole or holes. Your lips are very sensitive and can feel the slightest leak of air.

2. Deflate the tube completely. Remember to keep an eye on the hole, you can mark it with a marker.

3. Apply glue. A thin coating in a circular motion around the hole. Too much glue is messy and doesn’t help the patch stick any better. Make sure the area of glue is larger than the patch being used. Try and keep the hole in the center of the glue circle. This will help you center the patch.

4. Let the glue dry 60%. This is the step that usually gets skipped. People are in too much of a hurry. If you applied the proper amount of glue it should only take a few minutes.

5. Press the patch on. Place the tube on a hard surface and use a rigid cylinder to roll the patch on. This gets rid of air bubbles and helps the patch bond with the tube.

6. Let it dry more. This shouldn’t take long. If you’re in a hurry you could probably skip this step.

I tend to leave the plastic covers on patches so the outside doesn’t stick to the tube as I fold it for storage. The plastic can also keep the glue from sticking to the inside of the tire. I’ve never experienced any problems from leaving the plastic on, but let me know if you have.

Good luck. Earth day every day.

One more thing. Cut the tubes that can’t be patched into rubber bands. They are great keeping spare tubes wrapped tight and bundling $$. There is probably at least 500 more uses, let me know what you come up with.