There are a number of reasons to remove one or both of your bike’s disc brake calipers from it’s fork or frame.  Standard practice for bleeding the brake or most front suspension servicing.  When shipping a mountain bike sometimes it helps to remove the brake caliper from the fork and spin the fork backwards.  This little number can save valuable inches when squeezing a big bike in a box.

I’m getting off track.  The point is, a disc brake caliper is bound to come off at some point.  If the brake is a post mount type, you should find yourself some valve stem nuts.  Valve stem nuts are the round nurled things that thread on to presta valve stems and come with most bicycle tubes.  Valve stem nuts just happen to thread nicely on to the bolts that hold the caliper to the fork or brake adapter.

When you go to remove the caliper, loosen both bolts a bit, but before you remove the second bolt, pivot the caliper slightly and thread the valve stem nut on the removed bolt.  Careful not to let any hardware escape during the maneuver.  Even if the brakes don’t have washers or those angle adjusting thingys, you can utilize the valve stem nut just to hold the bolts in the caliper as not to misplace them.

Valve stem nuts.  Love ‘em.

I have nightmares about loose stems on bicycles. Besides the financial liability possibly incurred from a mechanic’s carelessness, there is a terrible guilt associated with such an occurrence. Even more so when injury results.

So here’s the hint. Whenever you have a stem loosened while still installed on the bike, rotate it severely off center. It’s a good reminder that the stem is loose and you can be sure to tighten the stem after you’ve aligned it with the front wheel.

You have a rim, you have a hub, and now you need to decide what length spokes you’ll need to assemble a usable wheel with them. If you plan on buying spokes at the local bike shop, it may be easiest to have them come up with the appropriate spoke length. If you like to figure things out yourself, you can find help on the web in many forms.

Any spoke calculator you find on the internet will require you to enter some information. Just how much information depends on the web site’s spoke calculator and the popularity of the components of your wheel. Popular rims and hubs can often be chosen from a list. For these, the needed values will be provided with the exception of the number of spoke holes and the number of crosses your spokes will be laced with.

Having to measure for the needed values isn’t the end of the world. Some of the web sites will help you through the measurements but you will need a sliding caliper and a tape measure to get those measurements.

Here are some spoke calculators and information about wheel building you may find useful.

DT Swiss This happens to be my favorite, probably because it’s the easiest. Sign in as an anonymous user.

Sheldon Brown

spokelength.com

United Bicycle Institute

wheelpro.co.uk

appliedthought.com Great instructions!

Good luck building!

A good portion of knowing the answer is knowing where to find it. Of course this holds true when you’re trying to fix a new malady on your trusty steed or even on the most basic things like installing a cycle computer. In most cases the people that wrote the instructions have performed said task more than once or twice. I recommend reading the directions twice before beginning anything. The guys at Park Tools have fixed a few bikes and that’s why their Big Blue Book of Bike Repair is so darn good. Aimed at the home mechanic, the book offers easy to understand explanations of bike repair tasks accompanied by helpful photos.

Product description:

A new book on bike repair from the company that wrote the book on bike repair products. Calvin Jones, Education Director at Park Tool, provides easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions for keeping any road or mountain bike running smoothly. From tire repair and derailleur adjustment to wheel truing and bottom bracket replacement, The Big Blue Book of Bike Repair provides both the novice and veteran mechanic with the information needed to perform nearly any repair. Special topics such as tool selection, bike cleaning, and on-the-trail repairs are also covered, and an appendix at the back of the book provides valuable reference materials. Up to date with the latest technology, The Big Blue Book of Bike Repair is packed four hundred photos, as well as repair tips garnered from the author’s 30 years as an educator and mechanic.

A great book to keep in the tool box or next to the bed. Buy it here.

It’s time to install some pedals on a bike. If you are in possession of a pedal wrench and some bike grease, you are ready to tackle the pedal installation. No need to run to the local bike shop.

In order to understand what you’re about to read, you’ll need a quick lesson in pedal and bike anatomy. First thing first, whenever referring to right or left on a bicycle, it’s as if you were sitting on the saddle of the bicycle with your hands on the handlebar. Therefore the right side of the bike generally has the drivetrain( derailleurs, gears, and chain). I say “generally” because there are some exceptions. Disc brake calipers are typically mounted to the left side of a bicycle. You get the idea. The center of the bike is a plane that would split the rider, tires, and frame, perpendicular to the ground.

The pedals thread into the right and left crank arms. The large threaded part of the pedal is the pedal spindle, some times called a pedal axle. The part of the pedal that contacts your foot is the pedal body. The pedal body spins on the spindle with the help of bushings or bearings, and a bit of grease. The pedal spindle will have the wrench surfaces that dictate what type of wrench you should use.

The proper pedal wrench is dependent on the pedals on the bike, and more specifically what the pedal spindle has been designed to be compatible with. The most common pedal wrench is probably the 15mm open ended wrench which works on pedals that have wrench flats on the spindle, between the crank arm and the pedal body. There are also pedals that use a similar 9/16″ wrench. The 9/16″ and the 15mm are close in size and appearance and care should be taken to use the proper wrench, especially if your pedal wrench offers both. If the pedal is designed to be used with a hex pedal wrench, the hex socket is found at the end of the spindle, on the inside of the crank arm. These hex sockets on the pedals will be either 6mm or 8mm. Whichever style wrench the pedal is designed to accept, be sure to use a wrench designed specifically for pedals! It will make life easier.

Before you begin the installation, place the bicycle in a stable position. A bike repair stand is best, but leaning it against a wall or flipping it upside down will do just fine. Next, clean the threads on the cranks and the pedals. Once the surfaces are clean you can apply a small amount of bicycle grease to the pedal threads. The grease will help combat corrosion, noise, and seizing, making the pedal’s removal easier later.

Pedals are left and right specific and deciding which is which can be accomplished through a few ways. If there are an L(for left) and an R(for right) stamped into the pedal spindle consider yourself lucky and move on to the next step. Sometimes just one pedal will be stamped with the distinguishing L or R, so check both. If a pedal has a toe clip, is one sided, or is a directional pedal, there is only one direction the pedals can be mounted and remain functional. Hold the pedals up to the bicycle to figure out which is right and left. You can grab your cycling shoes to check how the shoe attaches to the pedal in a clipless pedal and shoe system if you aren’t sure. If none of those work for your situation, hold the pedal up in front of you. Hold the pedal by the pedal body with the spindle pointing threaded end up. The threads on the spindle will appear to have a high and a low side. If the threads run up and to the left, it’s the left pedal. If the threads run up and to the right, it’s the right pedal. Holding both pedals next to each other can make picking up the slight slope of the threads easier on your eyes.

Getting the pedal threads started can be the toughest challenge of the whole process. Sometimes it’s so challenging I will go back to check if I am trying to install the correct side pedal. Double checking is always good too. You’ll want to use your finger to get the pedal started into the crank. By using your fingers you have more control and a better feel in order to get the threads started. Cross threading is a term for what occurs when you thread something in crooked. It is very bad in the world of pedals and cranks. Finger starting the pedals doesn’t allow you enough force on the pedal to mis form the metal threads.

To install the right pedal hold the pedal spindle perpendicular to the right crank so that it lines up with the threaded hole in the crank. Turning the pedal spindle to the right, or clockwise, while holding it in the proper position will start the pedal threads. Use one hand to hold the pedal body to stabilize while the other hand turns the pedal spindle. Got that? To the right. Install the right pedal by turning the spindle to the right(clockwise).

To install the left pedal use the same two handed technique as with the right. The only difference is the left pedal has a left thread, or reverse thread. That means you’ll have to install the left pedal by turning the pedal spindle to the left(counter clockwise). This is opposite of what we are used to as our standard threads are righty tighty. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread.

A couple more thoughts on pedal installation. If you can’t get a pedal started and you are positive it’s the correct side, you may need to re tap the thread to clean them. Threads can easily be damaged. Most shops will have pedal taps and the job is usually quick and easy. About your pedal wrench, it is designed with a long handle for making pedal removal easier if the pedal has been overtightened. The long handle is not to overtighten the pedals. You do not want them to come loose, but you’ll probably want to get them off some day. If you aren’t sure what the proper torque for your pedals are, check with a professional mechanic for some help. Good luck.

Pedals need to be removed for various reasons. Travel, shipment, pedal replacement, pedal service, or maybe your selling a bike and you just want your pedals back. In any case, it’s not always so convenient to run down to the local bike shop. If you are in possession of the proper tools, this task can be handled easily without going anywhere.

In order to understand what you’re about to read, you’ll need a quick lesson in pedal and bike anatomy. First thing first, whenever referring to right or left on a bicycle, it’s as if you were sitting on the saddle of the bicycle with your hands on the handlebar. Therefore the right side of the bike generally has the drivetrain( derailleurs, gears, and chain). I say “generally” because there are some exceptions. Disc brake calipers are typically mounted to the left side of a bicycle. You get the idea. The center of the bike is a plane that would split the rider, tires, and frame, perpendicular to the ground.

The pedals thread into the right and left crank arms. The large threaded metal part of the pedal is the pedal spindle, some times called a pedal axle. The part of the pedal that contacts your foot is the pedal body. The pedal body spins on the spindle with the help of bushings or bearings, and a bit of grease. The pedal spindle will have the wrench surfaces that dictate what type of wrench you should use.

The proper pedal wrench is dependent on the pedals on the bike, and more specifically what the pedal spindle has been designed to be compatible with. The most common pedal wrench is probably the 15mm open ended wrench which works on pedals that have wrench flats on the spindle, between the crank arm and the pedal body. There are also pedals that use a similar 9/16″ wrench. The 9/16″ and the 15mm are close in size and appearance and care should be taken to use the proper wrench, especially if your pedal wrench offers both. If the pedal is designed to be used with a hex pedal wrench, the hex socket is found at the end of the spindle, on the inside of the crank arm. These hex sockets on the pedals will be either 6mm or 8mm. Whichever style the pedal is designed to accept, be sure to use a wrench designed specifically for pedals! It will make life easier.

A couple more things before you remove that pedal. Shift your chain up to the big chain ring(outermost). By covering the teeth on that chain ring you can help avoid the occasional blood letting that goes with pedal removal. I’ve even started to wear my mechanic’s gloves(cheap rubberized gardening gloves) all the time because I’m sick of bloody knuckles. The point is, be careful.

As I like things to be easy, I recommend positioning the bike so it’s stable, while offering you both hands free to work. A bike repair stand would be best, but leaning it against a wall, or even flipping it upside down will do just fine.

Pedals are left and right specific. Because the pedals are on the bike, it’s fairly easy to tell which pedal is left and which is right. Let’s start with the right pedal. The right pedal will unthread from the crank as the spindle turns counter clockwise. When you place the pedal wrench on the wrench flats or in the hex socket be sure keep the angle between the wrench and the crank arm less than 90 degrees. The advantage gained by proper wrench position is crucial as pedals are often victim to severe over tightening. See pics below.

These photos show two different kinds of pedal wrenches at an angle less than 90 degrees to the crank.

Use one hand to help steady the bike or hold the opposite crank arm for more leverage. Grasping the pedal wrench at the end of the handle, apply force in the counter clockwise direction. Many pedals will have a noticeable threshold between tight and loose, but some will require brute force throughout the removal of the pedal. Consider the right pedal removed

The left pedal will be removed the same way, except the wrench will need to be turned clockwise. The left pedal has a left thread, also called a reverse thread. The left hand thread is opposite of what most would consider the standard or a righty tighty thread. Therefore in removal of the left pedal, force must be applied to the wrench in a clockwise direction. Once you can remember that the left pedal has a left thread, you are ruling pedal removal. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread.

That’s it. These helping hints should lead you to easy pedal removal.

Gift shopping is a double edged sword for me. While getting someone that perfect present is satisfying, the aggravation in extensive searching, or even worse, the certainty that the recipient won’t appreciate it and will probably give it away next holiday season, can leave one feeling not so good. Hopefully these tips will save you some time and effort, at the same time providing the bike mechanic with something they’ll want.

I think shopping for the average bicycle mechanic may be easier than shopping for the average person. Typically bike mechanics are broke leaving lots of room for need and want in an industry that has excess gadgetry and changing technology.

$0.01-$10
tubes
gear cleaning brush
valve caps

$10-$25
digital air gauge
folding multi tool
bike porn
beer glasses
Big Blue Book of Bike Repair

$25+
Ultimate hanging bike scale
messenger bag
safety glasses
frame building school
air compressor
torque wrench

I’m off to Moab tomorrow afternoon. The 24 Hours of Moab starts on Saturday, and since I’ll be 1 of 2 wrenches for the 4 teams that Pereira Cycles has entered in the event, I want to make sure our pit location is prime. Today is prep day and I don’t want to forget anything, so I thought I’d make a list. Here it is.

Tools & Lubes: PCBR Spoker, shop apron, repair stands, wheel truing stand, air tank, air compressor, air compressor hose, air compressor attachments(schrader, presta, air gun), pressure washer(handy in muddy situations, but set it on low), pedal wrenches(6mm hex, 8mm hex, 15mm open end), multiple multi tools, hex wrenches(2 sets), open/box metric wrenches, 3/32 hex wrench(for Chris King Hubs), Flat head screwdrivers(little to big and everything in between, phillips screwdrivers(full size run), tire levers, spoke wrenches(Mavic, Shimano, standard), chain tools, tire pressure gauge, brake bleed kits(Hayes, Magura, Avid), Knipex Plier Wrench(a TPW favorite), diagonal cutters, housing cutters, chain lube, degreaser, hand cleaner, rubbing alcohol, safety glasses, hack saw, spare hack saw blade, bottom bracket tools, cassette tool, torque wrench, magnetic parts tray, chain whip, crank pullers, cone wrenches, floor pumps, lock ring wrench, chain whip, headset wrenches, wire brush, toothbrush, scrub brush, calipers, measuring tape, spanner tools(great for eccentric bbs), toe straps, clamps …….

Spare Parts: derailleurs, derailleur cables, derailleur housing, brake cables, brake housing, brake ferrules, shift ferrules, brake pads(Hayes, Magura, Avid), brake lines, brake fittings, brake fluids, brake rotors, spokes, chains(single speed, 9 speed), Shimano chain pins, Sram Power Links, Stan’s No Tubes Solution, Nite Rider light mounts, chain ring bolts, spokes, my bike, hair spray, 26″ tires, 26″ tubes, 29″ tires, 29″ tubes, Sram shifters, Shimano shifters………

Misc.: table, headlamp, work lights, stationary trainer, front wheel block, carpet, pop up canopy, tie downs, buckets, chairs, Trixi’s bed, Trixi food, Trixi bowls, pit bike, yoga ball(crucial), goggles(in case of dust/sand storm), sleeping bag, pillow, extension cords, outlet splitters, tunes, rags, paper towels, hand cleaner, flooring …………

I’m positive I’ve left some things out. I do like to be over prepared but forgetting a few things isn’t usually a big issue. In my experience, there’s always a solution to be found for any mechanical problem, right in the pit area. The 24 hour racing community creates a friendly and supportive environment for everyone. Hopefully we’ll see you there.