It’s time to install some pedals on a bike. If you are in possession of a pedal wrench and some bike grease, you are ready to tackle the pedal installation. No need to run to the local bike shop.

In order to understand what you’re about to read, you’ll need a quick lesson in pedal and bike anatomy. First thing first, whenever referring to right or left on a bicycle, it’s as if you were sitting on the saddle of the bicycle with your hands on the handlebar. Therefore the right side of the bike generally has the drivetrain( derailleurs, gears, and chain). I say “generally” because there are some exceptions. Disc brake calipers are typically mounted to the left side of a bicycle. You get the idea. The center of the bike is a plane that would split the rider, tires, and frame, perpendicular to the ground.

The pedals thread into the right and left crank arms. The large threaded part of the pedal is the pedal spindle, some times called a pedal axle. The part of the pedal that contacts your foot is the pedal body. The pedal body spins on the spindle with the help of bushings or bearings, and a bit of grease. The pedal spindle will have the wrench surfaces that dictate what type of wrench you should use.

The proper pedal wrench is dependent on the pedals on the bike, and more specifically what the pedal spindle has been designed to be compatible with. The most common pedal wrench is probably the 15mm open ended wrench which works on pedals that have wrench flats on the spindle, between the crank arm and the pedal body. There are also pedals that use a similar 9/16″ wrench. The 9/16″ and the 15mm are close in size and appearance and care should be taken to use the proper wrench, especially if your pedal wrench offers both. If the pedal is designed to be used with a hex pedal wrench, the hex socket is found at the end of the spindle, on the inside of the crank arm. These hex sockets on the pedals will be either 6mm or 8mm. Whichever style wrench the pedal is designed to accept, be sure to use a wrench designed specifically for pedals! It will make life easier.

Before you begin the installation, place the bicycle in a stable position. A bike repair stand is best, but leaning it against a wall or flipping it upside down will do just fine. Next, clean the threads on the cranks and the pedals. Once the surfaces are clean you can apply a small amount of bicycle grease to the pedal threads. The grease will help combat corrosion, noise, and seizing, making the pedal’s removal easier later.

Pedals are left and right specific and deciding which is which can be accomplished through a few ways. If there are an L(for left) and an R(for right) stamped into the pedal spindle consider yourself lucky and move on to the next step. Sometimes just one pedal will be stamped with the distinguishing L or R, so check both. If a pedal has a toe clip, is one sided, or is a directional pedal, there is only one direction the pedals can be mounted and remain functional. Hold the pedals up to the bicycle to figure out which is right and left. You can grab your cycling shoes to check how the shoe attaches to the pedal in a clipless pedal and shoe system if you aren’t sure. If none of those work for your situation, hold the pedal up in front of you. Hold the pedal by the pedal body with the spindle pointing threaded end up. The threads on the spindle will appear to have a high and a low side. If the threads run up and to the left, it’s the left pedal. If the threads run up and to the right, it’s the right pedal. Holding both pedals next to each other can make picking up the slight slope of the threads easier on your eyes.

Getting the pedal threads started can be the toughest challenge of the whole process. Sometimes it’s so challenging I will go back to check if I am trying to install the correct side pedal. Double checking is always good too. You’ll want to use your finger to get the pedal started into the crank. By using your fingers you have more control and a better feel in order to get the threads started. Cross threading is a term for what occurs when you thread something in crooked. It is very bad in the world of pedals and cranks. Finger starting the pedals doesn’t allow you enough force on the pedal to mis form the metal threads.

To install the right pedal hold the pedal spindle perpendicular to the right crank so that it lines up with the threaded hole in the crank. Turning the pedal spindle to the right, or clockwise, while holding it in the proper position will start the pedal threads. Use one hand to hold the pedal body to stabilize while the other hand turns the pedal spindle. Got that? To the right. Install the right pedal by turning the spindle to the right(clockwise).

To install the left pedal use the same two handed technique as with the right. The only difference is the left pedal has a left thread, or reverse thread. That means you’ll have to install the left pedal by turning the pedal spindle to the left(counter clockwise). This is opposite of what we are used to as our standard threads are righty tighty. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread.

A couple more thoughts on pedal installation. If you can’t get a pedal started and you are positive it’s the correct side, you may need to re tap the thread to clean them. Threads can easily be damaged. Most shops will have pedal taps and the job is usually quick and easy. About your pedal wrench, it is designed with a long handle for making pedal removal easier if the pedal has been overtightened. The long handle is not to overtighten the pedals. You do not want them to come loose, but you’ll probably want to get them off some day. If you aren’t sure what the proper torque for your pedals are, check with a professional mechanic for some help. Good luck.

Pedals need to be removed for various reasons. Travel, shipment, pedal replacement, pedal service, or maybe your selling a bike and you just want your pedals back. In any case, it’s not always so convenient to run down to the local bike shop. If you are in possession of the proper tools, this task can be handled easily without going anywhere.

In order to understand what you’re about to read, you’ll need a quick lesson in pedal and bike anatomy. First thing first, whenever referring to right or left on a bicycle, it’s as if you were sitting on the saddle of the bicycle with your hands on the handlebar. Therefore the right side of the bike generally has the drivetrain( derailleurs, gears, and chain). I say “generally” because there are some exceptions. Disc brake calipers are typically mounted to the left side of a bicycle. You get the idea. The center of the bike is a plane that would split the rider, tires, and frame, perpendicular to the ground.

The pedals thread into the right and left crank arms. The large threaded metal part of the pedal is the pedal spindle, some times called a pedal axle. The part of the pedal that contacts your foot is the pedal body. The pedal body spins on the spindle with the help of bushings or bearings, and a bit of grease. The pedal spindle will have the wrench surfaces that dictate what type of wrench you should use.

The proper pedal wrench is dependent on the pedals on the bike, and more specifically what the pedal spindle has been designed to be compatible with. The most common pedal wrench is probably the 15mm open ended wrench which works on pedals that have wrench flats on the spindle, between the crank arm and the pedal body. There are also pedals that use a similar 9/16″ wrench. The 9/16″ and the 15mm are close in size and appearance and care should be taken to use the proper wrench, especially if your pedal wrench offers both. If the pedal is designed to be used with a hex pedal wrench, the hex socket is found at the end of the spindle, on the inside of the crank arm. These hex sockets on the pedals will be either 6mm or 8mm. Whichever style the pedal is designed to accept, be sure to use a wrench designed specifically for pedals! It will make life easier.

A couple more things before you remove that pedal. Shift your chain up to the big chain ring(outermost). By covering the teeth on that chain ring you can help avoid the occasional blood letting that goes with pedal removal. I’ve even started to wear my mechanic’s gloves(cheap rubberized gardening gloves) all the time because I’m sick of bloody knuckles. The point is, be careful.

As I like things to be easy, I recommend positioning the bike so it’s stable, while offering you both hands free to work. A bike repair stand would be best, but leaning it against a wall, or even flipping it upside down will do just fine.

Pedals are left and right specific. Because the pedals are on the bike, it’s fairly easy to tell which pedal is left and which is right. Let’s start with the right pedal. The right pedal will unthread from the crank as the spindle turns counter clockwise. When you place the pedal wrench on the wrench flats or in the hex socket be sure keep the angle between the wrench and the crank arm less than 90 degrees. The advantage gained by proper wrench position is crucial as pedals are often victim to severe over tightening. See pics below.

These photos show two different kinds of pedal wrenches at an angle less than 90 degrees to the crank.

Use one hand to help steady the bike or hold the opposite crank arm for more leverage. Grasping the pedal wrench at the end of the handle, apply force in the counter clockwise direction. Many pedals will have a noticeable threshold between tight and loose, but some will require brute force throughout the removal of the pedal. Consider the right pedal removed

The left pedal will be removed the same way, except the wrench will need to be turned clockwise. The left pedal has a left thread, also called a reverse thread. The left hand thread is opposite of what most would consider the standard or a righty tighty thread. Therefore in removal of the left pedal, force must be applied to the wrench in a clockwise direction. Once you can remember that the left pedal has a left thread, you are ruling pedal removal. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread.

That’s it. These helping hints should lead you to easy pedal removal.

Gift shopping is a double edged sword for me. While getting someone that perfect present is satisfying, the aggravation in extensive searching, or even worse, the certainty that the recipient won’t appreciate it and will probably give it away next holiday season, can leave one feeling not so good. Hopefully these tips will save you some time and effort, at the same time providing the bike mechanic with something they’ll want.

I think shopping for the average bicycle mechanic may be easier than shopping for the average person. Typically bike mechanics are broke leaving lots of room for need and want in an industry that has excess gadgetry and changing technology.

$0.01-$10
tubes
gear cleaning brush
valve caps

$10-$25
digital air gauge
folding multi tool
bike porn
beer glasses
Big Blue Book of Bike Repair

$25+
Ultimate hanging bike scale
messenger bag
safety glasses
frame building school
air compressor
torque wrench

Let’s do an experiment. Let’s see what happens when I send a mangled Multi 17 tool back to Crank Brothers for warranty. Over all, I’m already sold on the Crank Brothers products. Their pedals, tools, and now various other components, are pleasing to the eye and functional to boot As I’ll mention in my letter to Crank Brothers, I broke my Multi 17 trying to remove an over tightened pedal. That sort of task can be tough with the proper tool. Besides the failure in extreme circumstance, my Multi 17 was a trooper. The chain tool is not so easy to use, but adequate in a pinch. The rest is just what you need for any everyday mountain bike ride, and not too much to slip into your jersey pocket for a long road ride.

Crank Brothers claims a lifetime warranty on their tools. I didn’t see any fine print associated with that statement, but who knows? I will be returning the tool without all of the parts and with a healthy amount of rust. The letter I will include with the crippled tool will go something like this.:

Dear Crank Brothers,

I broke my Multi 17 tool while trying to remove an overtightened pedal at the end of a ride. I realize the task could have used a tool better suited, but my Multi 17 was all I had on hand.

I’ve already purchased another multi 17 to replace this one, but maybe you could help me out with a backup.

Love your new line.

Thanks,

KC

I’ll send the tool and letter on Monday 11/26 and keep you posted on how it goes. For more info on Crank Brothers, check out their website at www.crankbrothers.com or visit TPW Marketplace for killer deals on their products.

I’m back in snowy Park City but the red dirt of Moab still hitchhikes in the crevices of everything I own. A reminder of my sleep deprived experience at the 24 Hours of Moab mountain bike race that I hardly saw at all. I’m not complaining, I saw the start and it’s probably the most exciting thing to watch. The pit area that Pereira Cycles had styled us with was top notch. A pop up trailer, an RV named Paca, and some tents, made our little piece of the desert a comfortable place to be. Our oasis also had a full selection of chocolate treats thanks to one of the sponsors, Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory.

As far as the eye could see team camps were buzzing with support crews and racers, but I was confined to my own little bike repair world. I had all of the comforts of any bike shop ….with sandy floors. The bikes were constantly in need of cleaning and lubing as the sand seemed to work it’s way into every nook and cranny of the chain, dérailleurs, and shift housing. The single speeds were spared the shift ailments but battled chronic chain tension issues. Any of the tasks individually are simple and routine, but compounded together time after time and with sleep deprivation kicking you in the head, and coffee hardly providing anything but dehydration, they become Rubix Cube type problems to solve.

As a combination of sand and Stan’s No Tubes solution worked it’s way into my digital tire pressure gauge I struggled to accurately measure tire pressures of my teams’ riders. Tire pressure was a topic of discussion through the night. The course had a typical Moab mix of large rocks and sand making it hard to pinpoint the perfect pressure. Most ran a higher pressure to avoid tire and rim damage from the big rocks they encountered. It was hard for me to help any more than offering a pressure range to try, as everyone’s setup is different. Tire pressure should be adjusted according to riding technique, tire choice, terrain, and bike choice, and I had never ridden with most of the participants. But by the end, with no gauges that registered reliable readings, I was giving the tires an educated squeeze and telling the riders exactly what they needed to hear to head out into the darkness, those tires are perfect. A slight stray from the complete truth? Maybe not, maybe it was the perfect tire pressure?

The duration of the multifaceted suffering is what cracks the participants of this type of mountain bike race. Of course, if you overcome said misery, you gain a giant sense of something positive. I’m not sure what that something is. What is your something? I gained my something through relentless wrenching and I’d be happy to do it again.

Thanks to Katie of Panic Button Media the great photos.

Thanks to Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory of Provo for the support and certain cavity.

Thanks to all who supported me while I supported them.

I’m off to Moab tomorrow afternoon. The 24 Hours of Moab starts on Saturday, and since I’ll be 1 of 2 wrenches for the 4 teams that Pereira Cycles has entered in the event, I want to make sure our pit location is prime. Today is prep day and I don’t want to forget anything, so I thought I’d make a list. Here it is.

Tools & Lubes: PCBR Spoker, shop apron, repair stands, wheel truing stand, air tank, air compressor, air compressor hose, air compressor attachments(schrader, presta, air gun), pressure washer(handy in muddy situations, but set it on low), pedal wrenches(6mm hex, 8mm hex, 15mm open end), multiple multi tools, hex wrenches(2 sets), open/box metric wrenches, 3/32 hex wrench(for Chris King Hubs), Flat head screwdrivers(little to big and everything in between, phillips screwdrivers(full size run), tire levers, spoke wrenches(Mavic, Shimano, standard), chain tools, tire pressure gauge, brake bleed kits(Hayes, Magura, Avid), Knipex Plier Wrench(a TPW favorite), diagonal cutters, housing cutters, chain lube, degreaser, hand cleaner, rubbing alcohol, safety glasses, hack saw, spare hack saw blade, bottom bracket tools, cassette tool, torque wrench, magnetic parts tray, chain whip, crank pullers, cone wrenches, floor pumps, lock ring wrench, chain whip, headset wrenches, wire brush, toothbrush, scrub brush, calipers, measuring tape, spanner tools(great for eccentric bbs), toe straps, clamps …….

Spare Parts: derailleurs, derailleur cables, derailleur housing, brake cables, brake housing, brake ferrules, shift ferrules, brake pads(Hayes, Magura, Avid), brake lines, brake fittings, brake fluids, brake rotors, spokes, chains(single speed, 9 speed), Shimano chain pins, Sram Power Links, Stan’s No Tubes Solution, Nite Rider light mounts, chain ring bolts, spokes, my bike, hair spray, 26″ tires, 26″ tubes, 29″ tires, 29″ tubes, Sram shifters, Shimano shifters………

Misc.: table, headlamp, work lights, stationary trainer, front wheel block, carpet, pop up canopy, tie downs, buckets, chairs, Trixi’s bed, Trixi food, Trixi bowls, pit bike, yoga ball(crucial), goggles(in case of dust/sand storm), sleeping bag, pillow, extension cords, outlet splitters, tunes, rags, paper towels, hand cleaner, flooring …………

I’m positive I’ve left some things out. I do like to be over prepared but forgetting a few things isn’t usually a big issue. In my experience, there’s always a solution to be found for any mechanical problem, right in the pit area. The 24 hour racing community creates a friendly and supportive environment for everyone. Hopefully we’ll see you there.

Just a shot from today’s bike ride. It was super sick.

 Park City Bicycle Recyclers’ website, bikerecyclers.org, is now in your computer.  The site will continue to grow and change as it gets more comfortable with itself.  Bikerecyclers.org will offer a venue for PCBR to showcase it’s latest recycled bicycles, recycled bicycle parts, and thoughts on everything.  It should be mildly entertaining, if not informative.  Check it yo!

The Park TS-2 is the standard in bike shop quality wheel truing stands.  The TS-2 is designed to hold wheels from 16″ through 28″, and often with the tire left on.  At 17.7lbs., the Park TS-2 isn’t all that great to carry in your shop apron, but it mounts nicely to your work bench, Park Tool’s own base, a piece of wood, or it can be clamped in a vise for stability.  The weight is also an indication of the burliness of this truing stand.  Over the years I have witnessed these stands take abuse that no other truing stands on the market could withstand.  The stand will automatically center the hub, up to 150mm wide, in relation to the spring loaded truing calipers, a bonus for truing wheels, a necessity for building them.

Park Tool offers some accessories for the TS-2.  The TS-2EXT axle holding arm extensions are required for 29″ wheels.  The TSB-2 truing stand base is a compliment to the TS-2 giving it a steady platform on most surfaces and offering handy dandy holding bins for small parts like spoke nipples and your Park Tool spoke wrenches.

Park also helps you extend the useful life of your truing stand by offering a full service kit and service instructions.

Seeing the world by bicycle gives one a unique perspective on the surroundings that a traveler wouldn’t get in a car, on a motorcycle, or in a tour bus. The sounds and the smells are often missed, drowned out by the engine or kept at bay by the windows. Even some sights tend to be overlooked with the speeds and distractions that are associated with a combustion engine.

For the past few years, The Pedal Wrench has been providing technical support for Marty Jemison Cycling Tours and the groups of cyclists they lead around Europe. The opportunity has allowed me to become very aware of the extra logistical details that go along with lugging your bike around the world. Whether traveling by plane, train, boat, bus, car, or van, there are considerations to be made involving your bicycle. Taking care of a few things before you leave can save time, money, and anguish, and allow the trip to be what it’s meant to be…..vacation.

With the destination in mind, decide if your bicycle is the best option or if you need to consider renting. There are more than a few options for getting a bike to a distant location on the globe, but is it worth it? The obstacles and conditions faced in foreign lands make the memories of the trip, and proper equipment helps keep the memories positive. Terrain, cost, road conditions, crime, accommodations, transportation, and access to bike service/parts should be major considerations in the decision.

The terrain ahead needs to be met with the right bike. Sometimes deciding between taking a road or a mountain bike is not a clear and apparent choice. Will the gears on your bike get you up the hills on your 5th day of riding in a row? Many road riders traveling to mountainous regions will go for a triple front chain ring, a compact crank, or a mountain cassette and rear derailleur, any of which would come in handy when the road kicks up to an %18+ grade. Are the wheels and tires suited to the road or trail conditions where you’re going?

If something on the bike breaks will you be able to repair it? Exotic places don’t always embrace exotic bike parts making proprietary spokes and other parts hard to come by. In certain situations bike parts that excel in strength are better than parts that are lacking in weight.

A bicycle in transit is subject to bumps, bangs, crunches, and squashes once it leaves your sight. The way the bike is packed will help it avoid damage, but no case or packing job can save your bike in every scenario. Make sure the full value of your bike is insured if misfortune meets your bike somewhere along the way. Airlines and shipping services cover your bicycle in various ways and for various amounts, it’s worth reading the fine print. Along the same lines, if you plan on taking the bus, boat, or train with your bike you may find yourself stuffing it into less than ideal places, just so it fits.

Bicycle thieves can ruin a vacation quickly. The loss of a bike to theft is upsetting any time, but when it’s a major component in your plans for the immediate future, it really, really sucks. A quality lock and a little awareness go a long way. Park and lock your bike in smart places, and not for too long. Hotel rooms and cars get robbed all the time, lock your bike in hotels and cars too. If your bike is super flashy and/or expensive, bike thieves will fancy it that much more, you may consider leaving it behind.

The parts on a bicycle can fall victim too. Easily removable parts, like quick release wheels and seat posts are targeted first. If possible, lock the wheels and take the seat. A seat binder with a bolt instead of a quick release will deter most opportunistic thieves. It’s still a good idea to keep an eye on it as much as possible.

If your bicycle is going to make the trip with you, it will need some sort of container. The subject of which bicycle box or bag is the best would lead to a lengthy conversation among many. If this trip is a first and only, renting a bike box or bike bag may be the best option. Check with your local bike shops to see if they offer box/bag rentals. A cardboard bike box is a cheap(usually free), disposable alternative to buying an expensive case. You can even put it in the recycling bin when you get to where you’re going. Be sure and allow a few days to locate another cardboard bike box before your departure.

If purchasing a bike box/bag is more up your alley you should weigh your options. Some companies offer double bike bags/boxes, and you don’t have to travel with two bikes all the time. Some options will ship cheaper than others since shipping companies generally charge on the basis of size more than weight. Hard cases arguably offer more protection but can require more forethought since they don’t fit in a lot of rental cars, European cars are tiny, and aren’t fun on the train. The less mechanically inclined may want a model with less bike disassembly/assembly required at the start and finish of the adventure.

Shipping a bike via a shipping company is an option that offers lower effort and stress in the airports, trains, and taxis you may encounter en route. Making your connection after waiting for your bike in customs isn’t always easy. The airline will probably be the cheapest option, sometimes a smile will get your bike on, sometimes they charge $100 or so, each way. Airline policy is enforced in a consistently inconsistent nature, you’ll rarely get the same answer twice. If you don’t like what one airline employee says, politely try another. Like mentioned earlier, check on the coverage of your property while in the care of others. In my experience, the shipping companies are slightly more driven to find misplaced items than the airlines. A bicycle vacation with no bicycle is less than ideal.

If renting a bike is something that you’ll be needing to do, it’s a good idea to plan way ahead. Find the local bike rental shops and do a little research. Getting the information you need isn’t always easy, but you only need to make sure the bikes suit your needs and that they’re available. It never hurts to have a back up plan, just in case.

Packing is your chance to guess what situations you may encounter and what items you”ll need to deal with them. For example, obviously you would want to bring your bike shoes and pedals if you have them, and packing them in your carry on luggage will be greatly appreciated if any or all of your baggage is lost. The tools to reassemble your bike should make their way in the bike bag or bike box, maybe a folding tool will do the job. A full size pedal wrench can be a welcome sight after discovering an overtightened pedal. You should also pack items for roadside repairs, it’s much easier in a place you’re familiar with, in a language you actually speak and understand. Check with TSA and/or your airline to find out if CO2 cartridges and other questionable items are allowed, before you pack them. Each trip will require a different amount of preparedness and in different areas.

Some of the issues you face on the road can be extra challenging because of a language barrier. Maps are foreign, signs are foreign, and the responses you get to questions are typically not in English. Different cultures have different holidays and you should make yourself aware of any that may interfere with your vacation. Finding fuel or food on St. Whatever day is almost impossible in many countries. A wise person told me it would take me twice as long to do anything I needed to do in Europe. That, I’ve found, holds true there and elsewhere in the world. The United States is all about convenience and commercialism, fortunately the whole world isn’t like that, but it does mean some adjustments in time management. In general, being in a rush on vacation is no good anyway.

Sometimes it’s better to leave things up to the experts. There are tour companies out there that want to help you get where you want to go. These companies offer products to fit many budgets and time frames. Certain tour operators are more accommodating, and others take care of the logistics and send you on your way. If you decide to go with a tour company, do some digging. Find out as much as you can about it so you know what to expect.

Deciding to do a self guided cycling vacation is a large commitment, but it’s not rocket surgery. Planning will get you everywhere, and sometimes you have to slow down to speed up. As long as you don’t approach the endeavor underestimating it, the vacation will turn out great. At least you won’t be at work.

I found these websites full of useful information on the subject.

www.bikeaccess.net

www.bicycletour.com