I found an article in the Park Record recently regarding the Fort Collins Bicycle Library in Fort Collins, Colorado. I thought I’d fill you in a bit.

With an e mail address and an ID, you can get a Ft Collins Bicycle Library card. The cards enables locals and visitors to borrow bicycles for as little as 1 hour, and as long as 5 days. When you’re finished with the bike, lock it up at a designated drop spot, then return the key. Pretty simple.

The Ft. Collins bike library opened in April of 2008, and since then has rented bikes to over 500 people from all walks. They hope to soon increase their fleet of recycled bicycles to accommodate more users. Check out the website, www.fcbikelibrary.org.

Some other bicycle libraries I found online.

Arcata Bicycle Library, Iowa City Bike Library, New Brunswick Bike Library

My experiences at the Tour De France are some of the greatest in my life. Watching it on TV is OK, the commentators are pretty entertaining. But it could never compare to finding that perfect spectating spot, watching the peleton whiz by, then finding a cafe to watch the finish on TV. Trust me, the French coverage is way better than ours!

Of course, a flight to Europe right now is around $1000, and our dollar is exchanging at a near record low. Makes taking weeks to follow the Tour a bit tough for most of us. The Tour of Utah requires a bit less expenditure on the spectator’s part.

The Tour of Utah offers many of the elements that make the bigger race in France so awesome to be a part of. Seventeen top level cycling teams represented by 120 riders make for great racing with lots of colorful kits. The racers will ride for a $75,000 purse and a new car, over 5 days, 342 miles, and a lotta climbing.

The Utah bike race is a must see for everyone. The start and finish will offer a festival like atmosphere with music, food, drink and some of the nicest bicycles you can’t even buy. Out on the race course you can find a nice spot to watch and cheer. Watch your toes, the bike mechanics in the support vehicles drive kind of fast and aren’t really looking out for you. Take some snacks, water, libations, and something to sit on and the day is sure to be a treat.

The Tour of Utah is August 13-17.

Stage 1 Sanpete to Nephi.

Stage 2 Ogden to Salt Lake City.

Stage 3 Salt Lake Downtown Criterium

Stage 4 Park City to Snowbird

Stage 5 Miller Motorsports Park Time Trial (Tooele)

Tour of Utah Website

As I realized that CyclistVillage.com is a MySpace for bike people, I felt a sense of relief. Since I’ve already burned my social networking candle at both ends with MySpace, I couldn’t possibly waste a significant amount of time surfing CyclistVillage…………We’ll see how that goes.

The idea seems like a good one, a place to cyberly interact with people of similar interests. I hope the smaller platform will keep a sense of usefulness that MySpace loses in it’s exhausting amount of junk correspondence.

We’ll see if I can make any interfriends.

www.cyclistvillag.com/thepedalwrench

You have a rim, you have a hub, and now you need to decide what length spokes you’ll need to assemble a usable wheel with them. If you plan on buying spokes at the local bike shop, it may be easiest to have them come up with the appropriate spoke length. If you like to figure things out yourself, you can find help on the web in many forms.

Any spoke calculator you find on the internet will require you to enter some information. Just how much information depends on the web site’s spoke calculator and the popularity of the components of your wheel. Popular rims and hubs can often be chosen from a list. For these, the needed values will be provided with the exception of the number of spoke holes and the number of crosses your spokes will be laced with.

Having to measure for the needed values isn’t the end of the world. Some of the web sites will help you through the measurements but you will need a sliding caliper and a tape measure to get those measurements.

Here are some spoke calculators and information about wheel building you may find useful.

DT Swiss This happens to be my favorite, probably because it’s the easiest. Sign in as an anonymous user.

Sheldon Brown

spokelength.com

United Bicycle Institute

wheelpro.co.uk

appliedthought.com Great instructions!

Good luck building!

For the second year in a row, I got to hang out with the Cannondale guys and fix bikes along the coast of California, all in the name of raising money for AIDS research, education, and awareness. The $11.6 million the AIDS Lifecycle 7 raised this year should help the cause.

I wish I could count all the flat tires I fixed during the week, I’m sure the number would be in the hundreds, as I’m positive I did over 20 a day. The miles my left arm pedaled as I shifted through bikes’ gears also took it’s toll. By the time the riders reached L.A., my arms were weak and useless.

The amount of tubes that got thrown away along the route was unfortunate. I wish I had the ability to at least get them recycled, but transporting thousands of bike tubes would require some special arrangements. Maybe next year we could make those arrangements, or maybe have a contest to find creative uses for the tubes that won’t hold air. The crowd that rides the AIDS Lifecycle is a creative bunch and I’m sure the contest would be a hit and produce some entertaining results.

Second only to flat tires, worn pedal cleats plagued many riders, some multiple times during the week. The cyclists wearing mountain bike shoes with walkable cleats were laughing at the riders with road bike shoes waiting in line for new $20 cleats. Cannondale’s technical support team had a hard time fulfilling the need for Look Delta, Look Keo, and Shimano SPD R cleats for the poor soles(pun) that didn’t have cleat covers to walk around in.

All in all, a great week playing with bicycles. The faces I recognized from last year were great to see again, and I hope to see this year’s new acquaintances next year. I hope everyone heeds my warning and brings there mountain bike shoes and pedals, but I’ll certainly be there to change your worn cleats out for you. See you then.

A good portion of knowing the answer is knowing where to find it. Of course this holds true when you’re trying to fix a new malady on your trusty steed or even on the most basic things like installing a cycle computer. In most cases the people that wrote the instructions have performed said task more than once or twice. I recommend reading the directions twice before beginning anything. The guys at Park Tools have fixed a few bikes and that’s why their Big Blue Book of Bike Repair is so darn good. Aimed at the home mechanic, the book offers easy to understand explanations of bike repair tasks accompanied by helpful photos.

Product description:

A new book on bike repair from the company that wrote the book on bike repair products. Calvin Jones, Education Director at Park Tool, provides easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions for keeping any road or mountain bike running smoothly. From tire repair and derailleur adjustment to wheel truing and bottom bracket replacement, The Big Blue Book of Bike Repair provides both the novice and veteran mechanic with the information needed to perform nearly any repair. Special topics such as tool selection, bike cleaning, and on-the-trail repairs are also covered, and an appendix at the back of the book provides valuable reference materials. Up to date with the latest technology, The Big Blue Book of Bike Repair is packed four hundred photos, as well as repair tips garnered from the author’s 30 years as an educator and mechanic.

A great book to keep in the tool box or next to the bed. Buy it here.

For the fifth year in a row The Pedal Wrench lends it’s chief bicycle repair instructor, KC Gaudet, to the Park City School District.

From pcschools.us:

Save time, money, and maybe a trip to the bike shop! Keep your bicycle running smoothly and safely. Learn the proper way to clean and lube your bicycle, basic fit, basic maintenance, and emergency repair. Bring your bike to this hands-on class. Tool list provided in class, plus information on where to ride. Both road and mountain bikes are welcome. Limit of 10 people.

Registration and More Info

I didn’t really know Sheldon Brown. I knew his website and I’d like to think I can relate to the bicycle thinker side of the man. I was so impressed with his efforts to share some tid bits of his vast bicycle knowledge on the web, that I contacted him, let him know that I planned on doing the same, and it’s been my project for the past 5 years or so. His e mail response was short, but supportive. He even remembered me when I introduced myself a few years later at InterBike, the international bike show in Vegas.

As my web progress moves at a snails pace, I can see the dedication and time he must have put into sheldonbrown.com. Millions have benefited. Thanks Sheldon, I really dug your style.

Sheldon Brown July 14, 1944-February 3, 2008

On November 24th I posted about my Crank Bros. Multi 17 Tool. Even though the tool failed trying to remove a pedal, I still appreciate the size, tool selection, and price point. Now those warm and fuzzy feelings have been reinforced by a stellar customer service department.

Yesterday I received any early birthday gift in the form of a fresh, still in the packaging, Crank Bros. Multi 17 Tool in the mail. It took a mere 17 days for the process and only cost me the price of the original tool plus $1.58 for shipping back to the company. My new tool even has a snazzier finish than the one I sent back.

In conclusion, I highly recommend the Multi 17 for many reasons. Besides being your friend in your time of need on your bike, it offers a lifetime warranty that Crank Brothers has proved to me to stand behind. All that in a tool in the $10 ballpark, that’s pretty sweet. Buy one here.

It’s time to install some pedals on a bike. If you are in possession of a pedal wrench and some bike grease, you are ready to tackle the pedal installation. No need to run to the local bike shop.

In order to understand what you’re about to read, you’ll need a quick lesson in pedal and bike anatomy. First thing first, whenever referring to right or left on a bicycle, it’s as if you were sitting on the saddle of the bicycle with your hands on the handlebar. Therefore the right side of the bike generally has the drivetrain( derailleurs, gears, and chain). I say “generally” because there are some exceptions. Disc brake calipers are typically mounted to the left side of a bicycle. You get the idea. The center of the bike is a plane that would split the rider, tires, and frame, perpendicular to the ground.

The pedals thread into the right and left crank arms. The large threaded part of the pedal is the pedal spindle, some times called a pedal axle. The part of the pedal that contacts your foot is the pedal body. The pedal body spins on the spindle with the help of bushings or bearings, and a bit of grease. The pedal spindle will have the wrench surfaces that dictate what type of wrench you should use.

The proper pedal wrench is dependent on the pedals on the bike, and more specifically what the pedal spindle has been designed to be compatible with. The most common pedal wrench is probably the 15mm open ended wrench which works on pedals that have wrench flats on the spindle, between the crank arm and the pedal body. There are also pedals that use a similar 9/16″ wrench. The 9/16″ and the 15mm are close in size and appearance and care should be taken to use the proper wrench, especially if your pedal wrench offers both. If the pedal is designed to be used with a hex pedal wrench, the hex socket is found at the end of the spindle, on the inside of the crank arm. These hex sockets on the pedals will be either 6mm or 8mm. Whichever style wrench the pedal is designed to accept, be sure to use a wrench designed specifically for pedals! It will make life easier.

Before you begin the installation, place the bicycle in a stable position. A bike repair stand is best, but leaning it against a wall or flipping it upside down will do just fine. Next, clean the threads on the cranks and the pedals. Once the surfaces are clean you can apply a small amount of bicycle grease to the pedal threads. The grease will help combat corrosion, noise, and seizing, making the pedal’s removal easier later.

Pedals are left and right specific and deciding which is which can be accomplished through a few ways. If there are an L(for left) and an R(for right) stamped into the pedal spindle consider yourself lucky and move on to the next step. Sometimes just one pedal will be stamped with the distinguishing L or R, so check both. If a pedal has a toe clip, is one sided, or is a directional pedal, there is only one direction the pedals can be mounted and remain functional. Hold the pedals up to the bicycle to figure out which is right and left. You can grab your cycling shoes to check how the shoe attaches to the pedal in a clipless pedal and shoe system if you aren’t sure. If none of those work for your situation, hold the pedal up in front of you. Hold the pedal by the pedal body with the spindle pointing threaded end up. The threads on the spindle will appear to have a high and a low side. If the threads run up and to the left, it’s the left pedal. If the threads run up and to the right, it’s the right pedal. Holding both pedals next to each other can make picking up the slight slope of the threads easier on your eyes.

Getting the pedal threads started can be the toughest challenge of the whole process. Sometimes it’s so challenging I will go back to check if I am trying to install the correct side pedal. Double checking is always good too. You’ll want to use your finger to get the pedal started into the crank. By using your fingers you have more control and a better feel in order to get the threads started. Cross threading is a term for what occurs when you thread something in crooked. It is very bad in the world of pedals and cranks. Finger starting the pedals doesn’t allow you enough force on the pedal to mis form the metal threads.

To install the right pedal hold the pedal spindle perpendicular to the right crank so that it lines up with the threaded hole in the crank. Turning the pedal spindle to the right, or clockwise, while holding it in the proper position will start the pedal threads. Use one hand to hold the pedal body to stabilize while the other hand turns the pedal spindle. Got that? To the right. Install the right pedal by turning the spindle to the right(clockwise).

To install the left pedal use the same two handed technique as with the right. The only difference is the left pedal has a left thread, or reverse thread. That means you’ll have to install the left pedal by turning the pedal spindle to the left(counter clockwise). This is opposite of what we are used to as our standard threads are righty tighty. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread. Left pedal, left thread.

A couple more thoughts on pedal installation. If you can’t get a pedal started and you are positive it’s the correct side, you may need to re tap the thread to clean them. Threads can easily be damaged. Most shops will have pedal taps and the job is usually quick and easy. About your pedal wrench, it is designed with a long handle for making pedal removal easier if the pedal has been overtightened. The long handle is not to overtighten the pedals. You do not want them to come loose, but you’ll probably want to get them off some day. If you aren’t sure what the proper torque for your pedals are, check with a professional mechanic for some help. Good luck.